In the abundance of water a fool is thirsty.
"How can you live in California and not surf?", I ask. In my mind, it's the only reason to live out here. The state is falling apart, the cost of goods, services, housing, fuel & energy are insane. But, there are the waves. I love em. Can't get enough. I always see the same guys when I'm out, so there's plenty of motivated surfers out here.
The weather's nice too.