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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Stayin' Classy in San Diego
    Posts
    1,940
    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    Motivation in SD where this thread began was easy. Wake up surf. Sleep, repeat.

    Now that I am in the SE, motivation is equally as easy, when there is surf anyway. I have been making the best of each waist high slop day that I can muster and taking advantage of the few chest-head high days each month. Not much to it. Most days when I am itching to surf, there are no waves, but even when the forecast calls for high winds and crap surf, I am usually pleasantly surprised.

    As long as there are waves, no motivation is required....

    If the intention of this thread was out west where I believe it was, there is a whole different ball game in play. I had friends of all skill levels that I would surf with from Pros to weekend warriors. Hardest thing to find is a few guys that were ready to go no matter what conditions, every day, all year... Most pros that I know have excuses as to why its "just not good enough" and then the weekend warriors have harder times deciding if there are going to go golfing and not surf... Or start raging at 10am on a Sunday for football.... Motivation is harder to come by when you have waves to choose from every day... There are 10 million other things in life that can get in the way of that.... But when waves are few and far between, if you feel like you need motivation, you probably in fact just need a new hobby....
    What's up Zach!?

    In the abundance of water a fool is thirsty.
    "How can you live in California and not surf?", I ask. In my mind, it's the only reason to live out here. The state is falling apart, the cost of goods, services, housing, fuel & energy are insane. But, there are the waves. I love em. Can't get enough. I always see the same guys when I'm out, so there's plenty of motivated surfers out here.

    The weather's nice too.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
    Posts
    4,198
    Images
    26
    Whats up brother? My friends in LJ were sending me pics of blacks last week when they went. Maybe 2 saturdays ago... looked about 10ft+... Rubbing it in my face =) But indeed, if you live out there, you may as well surf. All in all, I miss San Diego very much as I knew that I would, but at the end of the day, I don't feel that Southern California was ever too over priced, or too under resourced. At least in my industry, I got higher wages than in other states... There was plenty of work... Aside from owning a home, renting was never a big deal... There were always available spots by the surf etc.... So, although I save a little money on the condo I rent now down on HHI and gas is WAAAAYYYYY cheaper, at the end of the day, everywhere is over priced by the beach... I just miss the surf and the friends....

    its crazy, cause my wife, who barely even surfs misses San Diego more than I do... I stay busy, working a ton etc. She brings it up pretty much every day... She was the one worried about me ever leaving, thinking I would become a shell of a man without surf everyday etc... But like I said, im happy with the ripples that come through. I go out and do my thing here and have met some nice locals.... Doesnt compare to the waves out west by any means, but I told me wife... Just make sure wherever we live, I have an ocean... Maryland, Deleware, South Carolina... ****, Canada... just give me a beach and a wave and I will make it happen....

    Glad to hear from some people still living the dream =)

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    WB
    Posts
    86
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    1
    School, exams, finals, work, and other things of that nature have always been pretty strong motivators to get away from it all. Waves are the best medicine, anytime of the year.

  4. #64
    When I'm in the water the only thing on my mind is the wave I'm trying to catch, when I walk out of the drink it's back to life and reality.

    Kind of what you said zaGaffer

  5. Living in new areas that forces me out of my comfort zone.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    bolsa chica SB, Huntington Beach,CA
    Posts
    319
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    1
    i was up in san francisco last weekend to visit some old friends for NYE and i wandered over to ocean beach ( at the end of the park) to see 4 rescue vehicles and three CG boats trying to "rescue" a guy on a longboard from 14 ft pounders in 46 degree water. as the drama unfolded all i could think was, man . i wish i at least had my sponge ....
    you have the motivation or you don't...

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Science mother****er
    Posts
    2,504
    Quote Originally Posted by spongedude View Post
    i was up in san francisco last weekend to visit some old friends for NYE and i wandered over to ocean beach ( at the end of the park) to see 4 rescue vehicles and three CG boats trying to "rescue" a guy on a longboard from 14 ft pounders in 46 degree water. as the drama unfolded all i could think was, man . i wish i at least had my sponge ....
    you have the motivation or you don't...
    He should have known that you don't paddle out unless you are ready to ride it in. I learned that lesson real fast in my first head high storm swell.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    bolsa chica SB, Huntington Beach,CA
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    319
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    1
    haaha...actually, he was ready. he paddled over to the boats on the outside but didn't get in. he then rode in to shore (after getting caught in the 'death zone' between the inside and the outside sets) where he also had conversation with the folks on land. i don't think he felt he was in danger; THEY thought he was.

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Stayin' Classy in San Diego
    Posts
    1,940
    Cause sometimes, thinking about the next good wave and the next good ride, is the only thing that keeps me smiling. Should be good tomorrow morning.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    WB
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    86
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    1
    Sometimes there is just nothing better to do, I'd rather surf small crappy waves than lay on the couch all day. It makes me feel like less of a lazy bum.