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  1. #71
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Gtown TEXAS BABY!
    Posts
    68
    Being a better surfer motivates me. My friends do to. I run with some bad asses. So more sessions more waves. On my way to Kelly Slaterdome lol surfing is my zen I started after my dad died. I needed an outlet or I was going to drink myself to death.
    Last edited by BubbleToes; Jan 12, 2013 at 07:10 PM.

  2. #72
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    THE GREEN ROOM
    Posts
    101
    Quote Originally Posted by cresto4 View Post
    I smoke two joints in the morning.
    Haha word man.... You'll always be stoked to get out there, waves will always be looking fun! And what motivates me is the stoke I get from that sickk barrel, slashing the lip or even just getting f**king worked on a close out... I'm always on a search to find the stoke again... Could be on the next wave or in 100 waves, but you won't find it unless you're out there.

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Santa Barbara, CA/CT
    Posts
    338
    got some time on ur hands huh

  4. #74
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Jacksonville FL
    Posts
    500
    Self destructive and an addictive personality... bad combo... I've tried every which way to do it... I can't help it...It's me...if some is good... a whole lot is better...cigs...drugs...alcohol...worse...

    Surfing and running have proven to be healthy outlets for me...I can go all out and its generally good for me ('cept when I occasionally take it too far)... some how I'm the opposite of most...the desire only gets greater with age... my situation the last 4 years or so has allowed me to surf a lot to leave the bad stuff behind... no drugs...waking up in strange places... 25lbs of unnecessary weight...need to be ready for that 2,3,4,5, or more hour session when the waves come up...obsessed