Being a better surfer motivates me. My friends do to. I run with some bad asses. So more sessions more waves. On my way to Kelly Slaterdome lol surfing is my zen I started after my dad died. I needed an outlet or I was going to drink myself to death.
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Thread: What keeps you motivated?
Jan 12, 2013, 04:45 PM #71
Last edited by BubbleToes; Jan 12, 2013 at 07:10 PM.
Jan 12, 2013, 05:28 PM #72
Jan 12, 2013, 06:20 PM #73Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Santa Barbara, CA/CT
got some time on ur hands huh
Jan 12, 2013, 06:42 PM #74
Self destructive and an addictive personality... bad combo... I've tried every which way to do it... I can't help it...It's me...if some is good... a whole lot is better...cigs...drugs...alcohol...worse...
Surfing and running have proven to be healthy outlets for me...I can go all out and its generally good for me ('cept when I occasionally take it too far)... some how I'm the opposite of most...the desire only gets greater with age... my situation the last 4 years or so has allowed me to surf a lot to leave the bad stuff behind... no drugs...waking up in strange places... 25lbs of unnecessary weight...need to be ready for that 2,3,4,5, or more hour session when the waves come up...obsessed