Does anyone paddle out in the winter on the days that are anywhere from 1-3 on a longboard once it gets cold?
I haven't surfed the colder months yet, but at this point I feel like an idiot out there by myself when no one else seems to go out.
Am I the only one that wastes their time in the small stuff when you gotta get fully suited up?
I surf more small days than huge days in the winter. Getting beat down in 40 degree water with sub freezing air temps on a big day isnt that much fun. Waist to chest high is perfect in the winter with chest to head high on the warmer days being close to biggest I will go out. Once in a while there will be a big, fat and easy day, overhead and just plain fun. I go out on those days too.
Get out there, I have only been surfing for about four years an have become addicted. Last year was the first winter I surfed. I stayed out as long as I could with my only 3/2 . Then proceeded to get a 5/4 ,boots and gloves so I could keep on going . I know have 5 wet suits. I WISH I COULD GO . I Surfed a few days after Sandy and stayed out for 5 hours in OC then went to Assateague for another 2 THE SAME day. The reason I say this, 4 weeks ago doing my other Passion , Motocross , I over shot a trple jump and Smashed all the bones in my Right foot and toer the tendons right off the bone. I was to be in California this week surfing, then Hawaii. Well it all got cancilled. and I would be happy to be able to surf a 3 ' wave , freezing than sitting in a bed watching the tube . My goal is to get back out their by summer . My Motocross days are no longer going to happen. As a Surfer only we know the passion,and adrenalin you get while out there, and the constant craving when were away. I felt that same passion for Motocross as well. Kind of like loving all your kids the same. But i sure miss those many lonely times last winter i was surfing some great waves, and I wouldn't have minded another one out there for safety and to watch . Maybe next year !
Those are the best winter days. It's nice to be stoked for solid day(s) in the winter but sitting around for a week or more then going out into overhead with 30mph and cold water can be too much.
When it's balls freezing I'd rather go out on a nice, clean, day then sit around waiting for something that rarely comes and when it does is very challenging and freezing.
In the winter I never feel the rush to get out asap as soon as wind turns favorable. I chill out and, take it day by day and stay patient.
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