
Originally Posted by
mitchell
I'm goofy, and Delaware is all about rights. I've spent my entire life driving 45 mins. to maryland to surf lefts.
Dropping in on a steep wave backside and pumping off the bottom for speed / projection out onto the shoulder is harder. Your heels are a lot less useful of a tool than toes. It is pretty easy to gouge a satisfying, bucket throwing turn backside.
Gaffer...if your arent standing up switch, then you arent getting the full-on humbling experience. I like trying it once in a while on a fun-shape sized board in small clean waves just to realize how completely disconnected your circuitry actually is for something you only attempt 10 times a year.