I thought this thread was going to be about suggestions for books about surfing for Christmas. So not to totally hijack the thread, but at least make it about more than shameless self-promotion, does anyone have any suggestions for good books about surfing (either fiction or non-fiction)? I'm an avid reader and there doesn't seem to be a ton of quality literature out there, especially in the realm of fiction. Obviously, BW2013 you're welcome to make your pitch here as well...
I've enjoyed:
Greg Noll: The Art of the Surfboard by Drew Kampion
Jack O'Neill by Drew Kampion
"Can't you get along with anyone?" & "In Search of Capt. Zero" by A. Weisbecker
I could use some suggestions in this arena myself.
Bought My sons West of Jesus (Army Special Forces Medic) and Saltwater Buddha ( Exceptional Education Teacher) for Christmas. I'll read them when they finish them. Both had pretty good reviews.
Ditto on In Search of Captain Zero! Also, On A Wave by Thad Ziolkowski, Kook: What Surfing Taught Me about Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller, and Pipe Dreams by Kelly Slater are pretty good, too. Soul Surfer by Bethany Hamilton is also pretty good, especially for young folks and if you are OK with the evangelical Christian slant to it. Another oldie but goodie is Men Who Ride Mountains by Peter Dixon.
Caught Inside by Daniel Duane. It's an account of the author's time spent surfing the Santa Cruz area. His descriptions of the water, waves and nature are pure art! He also discusses alot of the history of early surfing and relates it to our present time in the water. I haven't finished it yet, but it's a great read so far.