For surf fiction I have a favorite. Tapping the Source by Kem Nunn. Its an incredible story of an inland kid learning to surf while searching for his missing sister at Huntington Beach, complete,with dangerous surf punks, bikers, sex and drugs . He also wrote Dogs of winter and Tijuana Straights. I cannot recommend these books enough.
Morning Glass by Mike Doyle is a good one
High Surf by Tim Baker (or any of his numerous other books)
And I'll second the recommendations of The Wave by Susan Casey and Saltwater Buddha by Jaimal Yogis (sp?)
I haven't read captain zero but heard that its a really good one so its on the list