Sad story. I was there this morning at about 7:00 AM. It was 6-8', occasionally 9-10' sets, but disorganized and bumpy. By most standards, it was pretty big water, and although long periods between sets, potentially dangerous. Obviously.
Dylan Smith, the one who drowned, was recognized by PEOPLE Magazine as a hero of the year, after using his surfboard and a homemade rope bridge to help rescue 6 people from their neighborhood that was underwater and on fire during Hurricane Sandy. RIP. http://www.people.com/people/article...653654,00.html