Ever known someone who use to surf but one day just quit? Ever met someone who says "I use to surf back in the day, but it's been years"? How do you view these people? I'm sure everybody has their reasons for quitting, or what I might call excuses, but at the end of the day, what would you say to someone who gave up surfing for lets say.... kayaking. I'm not judging someone for trying other sports, but I work with a guy who lights up whenever I talk about surfing, he's the type that will tell YOU everything you need to know about surfing, but yet hasn't done it in 20-25yrs... when I asked him the last time he paddled out he says sometime back in the late 80's. I asked why he stopped and he says he got hooked on kayaking and it's the "ultimate water sport". I'm not sure what to make of this...
I don't think anyone quits for some other activity. People quit for work, love and life just plain getting in the way. It would be easy for me to understand someone just being over it. Crowds in the water, lack of improvement after many years, hating the winter and eventually surfing summer only, then vacation only, then 20 years out of the water. I have been surfing for 37 years but for all practical purposes, stopped advancing after 15 years. I try to push myself every time out but time and age takes its toll and it gets frustrating that there are plenty of young guys 4-5 years in that are way better than me. I could see just walking away eventually, not now or even 10 years from now but it's not impossible that someday I will be just plain over it.
I stopped surfing for 7 or 8 years. Never quit. Just got busy with life and then got out of shape, so I just stopped. Then while at work one day I was talking to a young guy who said he surfed. After talking about after all that time I realized I missed it. Within a few weeks I was back into it again. It took some time to get back in shape, but I did.
I'm kind of in a rut right now. If I don't get back out there soon, I could see myself just forgetting about it. That won't happen I hope. I have enough friends to kick me in the ass if I get too lazy.
I understand not being physically able to surf, I think that’s different than what you mean, right? That’s not so much quitting as much as being forced to stop.
I quit smoking cigarettes 8 years ago. I still want one ever day, especially when I wake up, get in the car, get out of the car, during work, after work and when I drink. I have an addictive personality. When I moved from San Diego to Austin, I spent the first two years of four dreaming about surfing every night. The last two years we were there, it was down to a few times a week. I went from surfing almost every day and weighing 185-190 to a max weight of 248. That was after about only 1 year of living there (they got real good food in Austin and I wasn't going to the gym). Luckily I'm back down to that 190-195 range. I bring this up, because when I quit smoking I didn’t gain any weight. I also have never had a dream about smoking a cigarette.
I guess you could say, I just wasn’t really a smoker. That’s what I think about people who “quit” surfing.
I wish more people would quit. I can't believe how crowded it has been this winter in OC. Kind of depressing as the off season was always so nice to look forward to. It's not the old days of having everything to yourself and a few other similar faces.
I know a ton of people who don't really surf anymore... I used to paddle out with my friends all the time. Now 9 out 10 surfs I'm solo... But that's just life. Surfing doesn't pay the bills or watch your kids , soI can see why people slow down... Especially on the East Coast. With the amount of days of quality surf, and half the year its dark when you leave and get home from work, there's not that many days left.
I make my own hours, so I'm lucky... But a lot of my friends don't, so they rarely surf. But it's not because they decided to quit. They just dont have time, or it's flat when they do... It's tough being a "grown up" Surfer on the E.C.