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  1. #1

    Armageddon waves were amaaaazing, but...

    Hey all-

    I tried attaching some photos my cousin snapped with his iPhone before we paddled out at Long Branch. The waves were definitely amazing and we were all going nuts. While I loved being out in the water again (been a month or two!), I had one of 'those' sessions and was pretty frustrated. Frustrated enough that I created an account and can hopefully get some insight.

    This might have been the first session ever that I literally didn't get a legit wave. Being out of the water for awhile made me rusty and shoulders def felt out of shape, but I am curious to see if any others had a similar experience or if I could get some tips.

    I felt that I couldn't "plane" into the wave no matter how much I pressed forward or how hard I paddled.. then I'd try to get it later to help and I would end up getting dumped. My shoulders were pretty shot in the thick rubber, but I have surfed 10 hours in a single day and was still able to catch overhead+ waves with proper positioning and a quick burst. I am questioning if the board I got is too skinny now (or maybe just during the winter when I'm heavier with the wetsuit?).

    I currently have a chemistry dagger with dimensions 6'1" 18 5/8" 2 3/8" (I weigh about 160). My brother and cousin seemed to be able to get into the waves early even though their boards were slightly shorter. I am thinking the added width helped them plane into it. I knew when I got the board 18 5/8" was pushing it and the description said it was for lightweight surfers, but I figured the added maneuverability would be nice. Now I am starting to think I should trade with someone for a board thats 19-19.5".

    Here's a video my friend made for me when I first got this board. It seemed to work for me, but I suppose that's just because the waves were smaller? My surfing is kind of piss poor in the video and it was only a single day, but if any experienced surfers could give any advice on what I could work on that would be awesome. I need to get my surfing more 'up and down'. I'm the guy in the beginning of the vid with long hair. Youtube kind of f ucked up the video and warped it at certain parts. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUaA04Q9a9E

    I know I didnt have a lot of long rides but perhaps you guys can tell how the board works for me getting into waves. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated. Merry Christmas to all of you guys! Hopefully this thursday stays good and I can redeem myself hah!
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    Last edited by desinaner; Dec 24, 2012 at 11:10 PM.