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  1. #11
    Kind of embarrassing to hear the D list NJ pros calling this the best day in ten years on surfline. Pretty much a dime a dozen day most places around the world, plus freezing temps and lots of dumpy close outs.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by brek View Post
    can't offer much help for you on your surfing, but could the video have looked weird because you turned on image stabilization? Thanks for sharing though, was helpful for me to watch and read the feedback from others.

    The surf simply videos get mentioned a lot... but here are some other training vids that don't get mentioned as much and are still be updated:

    http://www.surfingaustralia.com/surf...ing-solutions/
    I'll have to bring up the image stabilization thing with my friend. I think he mentioned something like that so good looks! I'm glad others got help from this thread other than myself. and thank you soooo much for those videos! I've seen some from that instructor, but not all of them compiled together on that site! Awesome!

    Quote Originally Posted by quiksilver1231 View Post
    i'd agree with this. i used to surf that same spot, honestly when it gets big that place dumps. i've been out there plenty of times where i would only catch one wave and i thought it was just me but the other guys out there were all having the same problem. definitely frustrating but it's only one session, makes you wanna get out again and get some more the next session.
    Yea, thanks for the encouragement, but others were able to make it happen so I should be able to as well. That's what I get for being out of the water for awhile I suppose. Tomorrow seems like it's gonna be sick though.. I can't wait!

    Quote Originally Posted by stinkbug View Post
    Kind of embarrassing to hear the D list NJ pros calling this the best day in ten years on surfline. Pretty much a dime a dozen day most places around the world, plus freezing temps and lots of dumpy close outs.
    This made me feel better too haha. If I bombed the best session NJ has ever had that'd be pretty depressing lol.



    Hope you guys all had an awesome Christmas! I got new 7mil gloves Let's get it tomorrow!

  3. #13
    First off, great post, great thread. I feel like I'm in this same situation a lot. On the 21st, I didn't paddle out. I knew I'd get hammered. I feel like my surfing is close to being able to make those waves, but it's not there and that wasn't a day to play around. Two things I noticed, both from watching on the beach for quite a while and watching videos of that day.

    1) Don't feel bad. Despite all the photos you saw and the videos and the rides you may have seen people getting in the lineup, that day, It was a really tough day for a lot of people. I was at a beach with a lot of really good surfers out and I 'd say 60 percent of the takeoffs ended badly. Guys not making the drops, guys going over the falls, guys paddling out and saying they were done. That wind was no joke.

    Second thing I noticed from the videos is that all the successful takeoffs were pretty much straight drops. I noticed this because I have a tendency to try and take off on an angle on big steep days and now after watching a lot of footage from that day I realize the "paddle down the face" advice was really good.

    I also noticed a lot of guys coming out saying they were seriously exhausted. I think the post Sandy layoff has left a lot of of us unusually out of shape for this time of year. That's the excuse I'm going with for myself, anway.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by ragdolling View Post
    Second thing I noticed from the videos is that all the successful takeoffs were pretty much straight drops. I noticed this because I have a tendency to try and take off on an angle on big steep days and now after watching a lot of footage from that day I realize the "paddle down the face" advice was really good.

    I also noticed a lot of guys coming out saying they were seriously exhausted. I think the post Sandy layoff has left a lot of of us unusually out of shape for this time of year. That's the excuse I'm going with for myself, anway.
    I think I will go with that excuse as well hehe. And yea I saw a lot of people gettin thrown but where I was.. I saw people making sick drops with boards that looked liked toothpicks! Still, I notice my friends are able to get into these waves a lot easier.

    My cousin is riding a 5'10" 19 3/4 2 3/4! I originally thought that was crazy wide, but I also feel that that is so thick! My board is 2 3/8, but now I'm contemplating going wider and thicker, but only dropping an inch to 6' 0".

    I really don't know what dims are best for me and its annoying.

  5. #15
    Join Date
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    keep your head low on the board and dig deep,and when u feel the wave pick u up take 2 extra strokes so u dont get stuck in the lip.maybe u were too deep where u cant get down the face.i was out that day at longbranch it was a good day.sand is perfect.based on your video it looks like u know how to get into the waves.im not goin to sit here and judge your surfin,but keep workin at it.in order to become aa good surfer u must taka a lot of beatings.u want to sit just behind the curve,and take off and do a half bottom turn n get under the section.practice makes perfect,just keep at it

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by thetoeguy View Post
    I've been out 5 x's since Sandy hit and three of those sessions I came up empty. It's a whole different world out there now..."improvise, adapt, overcome!"
    I always use a thicker board especially when I have to use a 6 mil in the winter my short board is a 6. 6 and I always catch waves. My fish is a 6 2 and I wouldn't want anything shorter. I'm a 285 pounds but even so those boards are thick and long kind of like my johnson (couldn't help myself sorry) try a thicker wider board and see if you like it. I used to surf 63s and 64 s but like a 66 now. I just want to get down the line and do cutbacks and if I'm lucky get barreled. I ain't doing any airs anytime soon. So that's why the bigger wider boards for me

  7. #17
    I meant I'm 185 not 285 **** now everyone at swellinfo thinks I'm obese. Damn iPhone. Hahha

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by cepriano View Post
    keep your head low on the board and dig deep,and when u feel the wave pick u up take 2 extra strokes so u dont get stuck in the lip.maybe u were too deep where u cant get down the face.i was out that day at longbranch it was a good day.sand is perfect.based on your video it looks like u know how to get into the waves.im not goin to sit here and judge your surfin,but keep workin at it.in order to become aa good surfer u must taka a lot of beatings.u want to sit just behind the curve,and take off and do a half bottom turn n get under the section.practice makes perfect,just keep at it
    What do you mean too deep where I can't get down the face? If I'm deeper I feel it should be easier to get into the wave. I'll have to try getting into the wave behind the curve. I don't think I've ever backdoored a wave. Usually I try to get in right at the peak or even shy away a little bit towards the shoulder.. especially with how fast Jersey waves are.

    Quote Originally Posted by littlerhody View Post
    I always use a thicker board especially when I have to use a 6 mil in the winter my short board is a 6. 6 and I always catch waves. My fish is a 6 2 and I wouldn't want anything shorter. I'm a 185* pounds but even so those boards are thick and long kind of like my johnson (couldn't help myself sorry) try a thicker wider board and see if you like it. I used to surf 63s and 64 s but like a 66 now. I just want to get down the line and do cutbacks and if I'm lucky get barreled. I ain't doing any airs anytime soon. So that's why the bigger wider boards for me
    Interesting. I really want to do air though and take my surfing to the next level. I can see where people would like taller boards because I get into waves so smoothly with them... but I want to be able to rip it up and be able to handle quick snappy boards. How thick are your boards?


    I am about 6'1-6'2 and hover around 160lbs. Any recommendations on dims? I am thinking about switching to 6'0, at least 19.5 wide, and maybe 2.5 thickness.

  9. #19
    I never thought of padding down the wave, that's good advice. Anytime I get pitched its usually cause I didn't take last couple paddles. My buddy preaches chin down and try to get your head over nose of board...good thread .

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    when your too deep,that means your in the part of the wave,lets say the middle,and its sucking off the bottom and theres no way to make it because its too hollow.theres plenty of different ways to get tubed,but jersey is fast and hollow and if u dont make the drop u get pitched.its like tryin to get barrled in a closeout,not gonna happen.u gotta get into the wave early,or drop in on the shoulder.and that extra paddle is the difference between making the wave or going over the falls.gotta be committed and have confidence.everyone eats it