I have been surfing for plenty of years but took about 5 years off b/c I moved away from the coast. I have been back in the water for about a year now and I am finally getting my sea legs back.
I am about 185 lbs and 5’7”. I am pretty comfortable on a long board, (8’6”) but have tried to get back on a shorter board, (6’6”) especially for faster, larger, more hollow days like 12.21 which are rare around here in VB.
Be it a combo of the cold, hard wind, cranking swell and my uneasiness on a shorter board, I found myself really backing off on 12.21. It was an epic swell but was not an epic day for me.
Any suggestions for pushing it over the ledge and going for it? I have surprised myself in the past when I did make the hairy drops. I know I have more skill than I let myself believe. Just hold back too much.
Maybe I just need to listen to some faster music and drink a couple of red bulls before I go out.
Last edited by marsh64; Dec 27, 2012 at 12:46 AM.
Reason: strange spacing when posted. Prob my error.