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  1. #1

    Pushing my limits to the next level.

    I have been surfing for plenty of years but took about 5 years off b/c I moved away from the coast. I have been back in the water for about a year now and I am finally getting my sea legs back.

    I am about 185 lbs and 5’7”. I am pretty comfortable on a long board, (8’6”) but have tried to get back on a shorter board, (6’6”) especially for faster, larger, more hollow days like 12.21 which are rare around here in VB.

    Be it a combo of the cold, hard wind, cranking swell and my uneasiness on a shorter board, I found myself really backing off on 12.21. It was an epic swell but was not an epic day for me.

    Any suggestions for pushing it over the ledge and going for it? I have surprised myself in the past when I did make the hairy drops. I know I have more skill than I let myself believe. Just hold back too much.

    Maybe I just need to listen to some faster music and drink a couple of red bulls before I go out.
    Last edited by marsh64; Dec 27, 2012 at 12:46 AM. Reason: strange spacing when posted. Prob my error.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Jacksonville FL
    Posts
    478
    Just one man's opinion but...
    Move away from VB... it is truly the ball sack of the east coast for waves or just travel (OBX or elsewhere) when you can...surf good waves.
    Surf with good surfers... someone to push you to go big ...a crew to amp with you can be huge.
    Talk to a shaper...get boards that will help take you to the next level.
    Watch videos... Archy, Gorkin, Fletcher, Ozzy... they go for it...sometimes I just watch Rodney Mullen skate videos pre surf...that dude 1. shows me how much I suck at skating but 2. makes me want to do something rad
    but what do I know?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Long Island
    Posts
    187
    Just go out there and take it one wave at a time..

    I don't have a crew to surf with but it helps me to just look around and see the others grabbing waves. When I'm having a rough day this can get frustrating but turn that into motivation to help drive you to take that steep drop etc...

    "I have surprised myself in the past when I did make the hairy drops. I know I have more skill than I let myself believe. Just hold back too much." You need to believe it !! Mind over matter.. you have done it before!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Stayin' Classy in San Diego
    Posts
    1,870


    Listen to this song 19 times before you go surfing, every time.

    Or

    Surf more. As much as you can. Time in the water man, that's the whole secret. If you want to get better, faster, live someplace with consistently good waves. It offers a lot more opportunities to surf. If you live some place with crapwaves, paddle out every time there's so much as a ripple. Watch other people. Watch videos. Crss train. Don't be afraid to wipeout. Remember water doesn't usually hurt as badly as falling onto concrete or getting hit by a truck. Most of the time you'll be fine, just keep your head covered.

    If that don't work you could try hypnosis. I got me a cousin named Daryl, thinks he's a garden gnome ever since he went on a reality TV show 'bout it.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Stranded in Smithfield View Post
    sometimes I just watch Rodney Mullen skate videos pre surf...that dude 1. shows me how much I suck at skating but 2. makes me want to do something rad
    but what do I know?
    Dude, I can't tell you how many times I used to watch Rodney tear it up on the wooden stick. Have you seen the video from 1984 in Japan? That's some classy footwork.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuMmT3E-KVU

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    4,064
    Quote Originally Posted by marsh64 View Post
    Any suggestions for pushing it over the ledge and going for it? I have surprised myself in the past when I did make the hairy drops. I know I have more skill than I let myself believe. Just hold back too much.
    This sounds like something I can relate to, some days I go out and my mind is where it needs to be and i don't hold back and I end up making some waves that some days I wouldn't think possible. Those days where i'm not "feeling it" I tend to only get the ones I know I can get and the ones that look like a wipeout waiting to happen i hold back on. So the key I find is to just tell yourself F it and just go and don't look back, just go...

    And by just going, you FORCE yourself into a position to where you HAVE to do something.
    Last edited by DawnPatrolSUP; Dec 27, 2012 at 01:44 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    sea
    Posts
    1,528
    Quote Originally Posted by Stranded in Smithfield View Post
    Just one man's opinion but...
    Move away from VB... it is truly the ball sack of the east coast for waves or just travel (OBX or elsewhere) when you can...surf good waves.
    Surf with good surfers... someone to push you to go big ...a crew to amp with you can be huge.
    Talk to a shaper...get boards that will help take you to the next level.
    Watch videos... Archy, Gorkin, Fletcher, Ozzy... they go for it...sometimes I just watch Rodney Mullen skate videos pre surf...that dude 1. shows me how much I suck at skating but 2. makes me want to do something rad
    but what do I know?
    i agree with everything this guy said.for those who dont know about ozzie wright,check him out.crazy aussie that absolutely rips no matter what the conditions are.watch doped youth,one of the best surf movies.they have it on vimeo.com for free,just search doped youth.when paddlin for a big set,make sure u put in 2 extra paddles so u dont get stuck in the lip.id say go balls to the wall,or just wait on the shoulder and drop in but thats cheesy.i hate seein this kids waste perfect waves by not being deep enough.rodney mullen is the sickest skater that ever lived.i grew up skatin bowls so im pretty good at carvin,layin it on rail.i dont have much advice for older guys gettin into surfin,when your young your loose and can transfer easy.like the great surfers say,learn all your hotdoggin moves on a 3ft wave,then transform that to bigger waves.another thing travel,always show respect.last winter in hawaii,i surfed 8-10ft sunset,which are like 20-25ft faces.your so far out u cant see the beach,just focus on your positioning.u surf waves like that,then come back to the eastcoast and a 10ft day is a walk in the park!!remember fear is a cancer,u have to cut it out before it kills u.greg long nearly died at cortes bank,meanwhile some kook in longbranch got rescued by a helicopter.dont be that guy!

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by marsh64 View Post
    I have been surfing for plenty of years but took about 5 years off b/c I moved away from the coast. I have been back in the water for about a year now and I am finally getting my sea legs back.

    I am about 185 lbs and 5’7”. I am pretty comfortable on a long board, (8’6”) but have tried to get back on a shorter board, (6’6”) especially for faster, larger, more hollow days like 12.21 which are rare around here in VB.

    Be it a combo of the cold, hard wind, cranking swell and my uneasiness on a shorter board, I found myself really backing off on 12.21. It was an epic swell but was not an epic day for me.

    Any suggestions for pushing it over the ledge and going for it? I have surprised myself in the past when I did make the hairy drops. I know I have more skill than I let myself believe. Just hold back too much.

    Maybe I just need to listen to some faster music and drink a couple of red bulls before I go out.
    Just spend more time on a shortboard. and you'll get the timing, paddling technique back for a shorter board. Maybe look for spots that tend to break a little softer slower if possible on the better days. Perhaps not what would be the textbook "best spot" for the day, but still maybe the "best spot" for you getting back into it.

    I'm sure I'll get flamed for this, but it is simply easier to be proficient on on a longboard. I've done both since I started surfing many years ago, and I enjoy both, but it's just true in my opinion.

    I can go a looong time without riding a longboard, but then if I pull one out, it's pretty easy to pickup where I left off.... The reverse is not true. If I spend along time not riding a shortboard, it takes a while to really get back into the groove.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Crystal Coast,N.C.
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    399
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    24
    Quote Originally Posted by pkovo View Post
    Just spend more time on a shortboard. and you'll get the timing, paddling technique back for a shorter board. Maybe look for spots that tend to break a little softer slower if possible on the better days. Perhaps not what would be the textbook "best spot" for the day, but still maybe the "best spot" for you getting back into it.

    I'm sure I'll get flamed for this, but it is simply easier to be proficient on on a longboard. I've done both since I started surfing many years ago, and I enjoy both, but it's just true in my opinion.

    I can go a looong time without riding a longboard, but then if I pull one out, it's pretty easy to pickup where I left off.... The reverse is not true. If I spend along time not riding a shortboard, it takes a while to really get back into the groove.



    Sound advice.....Get used to that shortboard in some sloping surf before you hit the steep stuff.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Bogue Banks
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    62
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    2
    Quote Originally Posted by dlrouen View Post
    Dude, I can't tell you how many times I used to watch Rodney tear it up on the wooden stick. Have you seen the video from 1984 in Japan? That's some classy footwork.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuMmT3E-KVU
    That is insane.