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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Central FL
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    11,201
    Quote Originally Posted by Erock View Post
    I find taking a good thrashing then catching a couple set waves on the head on the first wave of a session puts me in the right frame of mind and takes away any apprehension I may have had before paddling out. I don't know, maybe I'm weird but it really does pump me up to charge the hardest I can.
    Kinda like professional fighters who need to get punched 1st before they really get into the fight and go after the guy.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Turtle Island
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    Yes, same here, after taking a good beating I think to myself that it wasn't that bad and can then get in the zone and properly charge.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Out on the island
    Posts
    1,229
    Hunter Thompson wrote about something like this in "Hells Angels". it had to do with how the Angels are so relaxed go top speed into a curve into the road. they were so relaxed becuase they have already "gone over the rail" and survived to ride again. he wrote about how all these karate experts would walk into bars looking for a fight and how the angels and bar tenders would whup em just because they were always getting into brawls.

    could be the same thing with surfing. more time in the water. more times going over the falls and coping beatings. eventually you just go and don't think about it.

    maybe thats the best advice. don't think just go.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Turtle Island
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    [QUOTE=Peajay4060;15010

    maybe thats the best advice. don't think just go.[/QUOTE]

    Effin A.

    "Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true." Bodhi's basic dog psychology rant.

  5. #15
    So true... I find myself much more committed after a good ass kicking. Once you take the worst, it's a lot easier to go for it with out hesitation.

    Quote Originally Posted by Erock View Post
    I find taking a good thrashing then catching a couple set waves on the head on the first wave of a session puts me in the right frame of mind and takes away any apprehension I may have had before paddling out. I don't know, maybe I'm weird but it really does pump me up to charge the hardest I can.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Eastern Long Island
    Posts
    39
    Doing a massive amount of push ups should help your pop up speed, which is def crucial to charging pumping surf and harrowing drops.

  7. #17
    Thanks for all the tips. I'll have plenty of time to cross train and do 1000s of push ups etc. with this great forecast we just got. Good advise. "Don't think, just go." The rest will happen instinctively.
    Peace.