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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Wilmington
    Posts
    2,340
    I find taking a good thrashing then catching a couple set waves on the head on the first wave of a session puts me in the right frame of mind and takes away any apprehension I may have had before paddling out. I don't know, maybe I'm weird but it really does pump me up to charge the hardest I can.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    3,805
    Quote Originally Posted by Erock View Post
    I find taking a good thrashing then catching a couple set waves on the head on the first wave of a session puts me in the right frame of mind and takes away any apprehension I may have had before paddling out. I don't know, maybe I'm weird but it really does pump me up to charge the hardest I can.
    Kinda like professional fighters who need to get punched 1st before they really get into the fight and go after the guy.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Turtle Island
    Posts
    3,643
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    6
    Yes, same here, after taking a good beating I think to myself that it wasn't that bad and can then get in the zone and properly charge.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Out on the island
    Posts
    362
    Hunter Thompson wrote about something like this in "Hells Angels". it had to do with how the Angels are so relaxed go top speed into a curve into the road. they were so relaxed becuase they have already "gone over the rail" and survived to ride again. he wrote about how all these karate experts would walk into bars looking for a fight and how the angels and bar tenders would whup em just because they were always getting into brawls.

    could be the same thing with surfing. more time in the water. more times going over the falls and coping beatings. eventually you just go and don't think about it.

    maybe thats the best advice. don't think just go.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Turtle Island
    Posts
    3,643
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    6
    [QUOTE=Peajay4060;15010

    maybe thats the best advice. don't think just go.[/QUOTE]

    Effin A.

    "Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true." Bodhi's basic dog psychology rant.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Stayin' Classy in San Diego
    Posts
    1,789
    Fear and hesitation are what screw up my sessions. A bad wipeout definitely has the opposite effect on me than couple of you guys. I find if I take a bad pounding, it takes me a couple of waves before I have my head back in the game. I start to hesitate, even though I know that's the worst thing I could do. Commit. Commit. Commit. The bigger and faster the wave, the more you just need to be willing to throw yourself into it whole heartedly.

    I've always enjoyed this quote about Greg Noll.

    “He was good – a charger – and fun to surf with because he was so ultra competitive,” recalls his old friend and fellow big-wave surfer, Peter Cole. “When he was young, he was a hotdog surfer, but as he got older and bigger, he focused on the largest waves. His thing was not to get outridden on the biggest wave. He’d be out there with Jose [Angel], Ricky [Grigg], George [Downing], and the rest of the gang, and if one of us got a good wave, Greg would immediately paddle outside and be sitting there, hyperventilating, waiting for a bigger one. The thing I remember most is him taking off on these huge waves – and I swear he had his eyes closed.

    And ever since I read Dune for the first time as a kid, I've remembered this:

    I must not fear.
    Fear is the mind-killer.
    Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration.
    I will face my fear.
    I will permit it to pass over me and through me.
    And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path.
    Where the fear has gone there will be nothing.
    Only I will remain.

  7. #17
    So true... I find myself much more committed after a good ass kicking. Once you take the worst, it's a lot easier to go for it with out hesitation.

    Quote Originally Posted by Erock View Post
    I find taking a good thrashing then catching a couple set waves on the head on the first wave of a session puts me in the right frame of mind and takes away any apprehension I may have had before paddling out. I don't know, maybe I'm weird but it really does pump me up to charge the hardest I can.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Eastern Long Island
    Posts
    39
    Doing a massive amount of push ups should help your pop up speed, which is def crucial to charging pumping surf and harrowing drops.

  9. #19
    Thanks for all the tips. I'll have plenty of time to cross train and do 1000s of push ups etc. with this great forecast we just got. Good advise. "Don't think, just go." The rest will happen instinctively.
    Peace.