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  1. #21
    Just finished Scratching the Horizon by Izzy Paskowitz. Well worth it to me as I'm a fan of both Izzy and Doc, so on that vein, Surfing and Health by Doc Paskowitz. Read In Search of Captain Zero on a trip to Cali last summer...another must read. someone mentioned Hemmingway. Been working through an anthology of his works....and now I know the mystique and allure. Finished The Sun Also Rises, For Whom the Bell Tolls, and A Farewell to Arms. All engaging on the highest levels. Enjoy!

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Ryukyu Islands
    Posts
    515
    these books are good... but in the grand scale of books, they aren't. Grab some Hemingway, man. Start with The Old Man and the Sea. It's short, set in / near the ocean, and will make you want to read everything he has ever written.
    Subjective but...yup I feel the same way. Some good non surf ones I have read lately
    Slaughterhouse Five (Dude lives life past, present, and future simultaneously)
    Catch 22 (War in a weird way)
    DMT the Spirit Molecule (brain chemicals & enlightenment...will blow your mind)

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    easternshore md.
    Posts
    79
    Great! Thanks for all replys.

  4. #24
    Crossings by Michael kew was a good book about surfing

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Turtle Island
    Posts
    11,885
    Images
    6
    +1 on The Spirit Molecule

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Rhody
    Posts
    290
    +1 for Tapping the Source, best surf novel ever written. Same author, Kem Nunn, wrote another novel with surfing called Tortilla Flats. Check out Tim Winton's Breath, another great NOVEL about surfing by one of Australia's best living authors. Weisbecker's Captain Zero is another great read and Kook definitely made me want to give it all up, move to Baja and . . . marry a beautiful Asian girl who also surfs! The Wave is a combination of nonfiction about rogue waves and every other chapter is an adoration of Laird Hamilton.

    Isn't there one called "Caught Inside" or "Trapped Inside?" That was a NON novel.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    South Shore, MA
    Posts
    279
    ya i believe we covered this topic recently. i got a few solid recommendations, including cosmic banditos that i just finished reading and was awesome. it has nothing to do with surfing but i highly recommend it to anyone with a sense of adventure (which i think includes most surfers). another recommendation was west of jesus, which i'm gonna start reading today

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Typical swellinfo d*ckhead
    Posts
    1,240
    With The Old Breed, EB Sledge
    Blood Meridian, Cormac McCarthy
    Thank you Dr. Kevorkian, Vonnegut
    Memory of fire (trilogy), open veins of latin america, Galeano
    Fully Empowered, Neruda
    Sea of Thunder, Thomas

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Charleston
    Posts
    1,988
    Images
    8
    The Cruise of the Snark by Jack London.

    Jack London was surfing with the native Hawaiians in 1911 before it was cool.

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Agabinet View Post
    +1 for Tapping the Source, best surf novel ever written. Same author, Kem Nunn, wrote another novel with surfing called Tortilla Flats. Check out Tim Winton's Breath, another great NOVEL about surfing by one of Australia's best living authors. Weisbecker's Captain Zero is another great read and Kook definitely made me want to give it all up, move to Baja and . . . marry a beautiful Asian girl who also surfs! The Wave is a combination of nonfiction about rogue waves and every other chapter is an adoration of Laird Hamilton.

    Isn't there one called "Caught Inside" or "Trapped Inside?" That was a NON novel.
    I liked Tijuana Straits by Kem Nunn also...