The Cruise of the Snark by Jack London.
Jack London was surfing with the native Hawaiians in 1911 before it was cool.

The Cruise of the Snark by Jack London.
Jack London was surfing with the native Hawaiians in 1911 before it was cool.
Good call +1...Also Helmet for My Pillow R. Leckie...if you're going down that road not as dark as Old Breed or Thin Red LineJ. Jones... really dark/ disturbing... Pacific WW2 History was my major in college... those books are close to my heart ...my great uncle I spent a lot of time with growing up was 1st Marine Division from 1942 through Korea and Vietnam.With The Old Breed, EB Sledge
waves and beaches by willard bascom is really good if you want to get technical as he explains a lot concerning the ocean
Since this has gone off pure surfing books and into the realm of military history, I offer:
Anything by Shelby Foote or Bruce Catton
“The Guns of August” by Barbara Tuchman, you want to know about WWI, read this.
John Keegan's "The Face of Battle: A Study of Agincourt, Waterloo, and the Somme " one of my all time favorites. A book about why these battles were important and how they affected modern warfare.
"Sagittarius Rising" by Cecil Lewis, a WWI combat ace who was described by my favorite playwright George Bernard Shaw (next to the immortal bard and thank you Mrs. Malaprop) as "a thinker, a master of words, and a bit of a poet". I’ve read through two copies of this book since I was a teenager. I’ve only gone through more copies of Dune and Ender’s Game. Very sad and very beautiful book, same as the next one.
"Tumult in the Clouds" by James "Goody" Goodson; one of the best accounts of WWII ETO aerial warfare there is, by a man who joined the RAF and took part in the BoB all the way to post D-Day operation until he was interned in a German P.O.W. camp. Amazing guy.
The Ghost Mountain Boys: Their Epic March and the Terrifying Battle for New Guinea--The Forgotten War of the South Pacific – James Campbell; you will hate MacArthur by the end of this.
We Were Soldiers Once… And Young by Lt. Gen. Harold G. Moore; very entertaining read. Amazing story of how a regiment with terrible ground took on a division with good ground and didn’t get wiped off the map. The redemption of the 7th cav one could call it.
Major: History. Focus: WW2... in particular pacific theater (everyone has a focus...something they are constantly researching and writing about for grades, academic journals, professional conferences, and eventually a thesis) Job I got from this endeavor in particular: none...but I was a double major with education so I taught school for a few years. I did however travel to some cool places and 10-12 years ago when there were considerably more WW2 vets around, interviewed some amazing people... a USS Indianapolis (look that one up) survivor comes to mind...surfers maybe can in a small way grasp that one better than the general publicWhy would you major in Pacific WWII History? What kind of job do you have now? Military Lawyer?