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  1. #31
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    Aug 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClemsonSurf View Post
    The Cruise of the Snark by Jack London.

    Jack London was surfing with the native Hawaiians in 1911 before it was cool.
    Surfing or native hawaiians?

  2. #32
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    Jan 2010
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    With The Old Breed, EB Sledge
    Good call +1...Also Helmet for My Pillow R. Leckie...if you're going down that road not as dark as Old Breed or Thin Red LineJ. Jones... really dark/ disturbing... Pacific WW2 History was my major in college... those books are close to my heart ...my great uncle I spent a lot of time with growing up was 1st Marine Division from 1942 through Korea and Vietnam.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manisses View Post
    Surfing or native hawaiians?
    I guess both...it was actually 1907 though. My bad. The book isn't about surfing but London's trip on the Snark. His description of surfing is a highlight of the book.

  4. #34
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    Aug 2010
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    Long Beach Township
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    waves and beaches by willard bascom is really good if you want to get technical as he explains a lot concerning the ocean

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stranded in Smithfield View Post
    Good call +1...Also Helmet for My Pillow R. Leckie...if you're going down that road not as dark as Old Breed or Thin Red LineJ. Jones... really dark/ disturbing... Pacific WW2 History was my major in college... those books are close to my heart ...my great uncle I spent a lot of time with growing up was 1st Marine Division from 1942 through Korea and Vietnam.
    Its an unpayable debt we owe those men and women.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stranded in Smithfield View Post
    Good call +1...Also Helmet for My Pillow R. Leckie...if you're going down that road not as dark as Old Breed or Thin Red LineJ. Jones... really dark/ disturbing... Pacific WW2 History was my major in college... those books are close to my heart ...my great uncle I spent a lot of time with growing up was 1st Marine Division from 1942 through Korea and Vietnam.
    Why would you major in Pacific WWII History? What kind of job do you have now? Military Lawyer?

  7. #37
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    Jan 2010
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    Why would you major in Pacific WWII History? What kind of job do you have now? Military Lawyer?
    Major: History. Focus: WW2... in particular pacific theater (everyone has a focus...something they are constantly researching and writing about for grades, academic journals, professional conferences, and eventually a thesis) Job I got from this endeavor in particular: none...but I was a double major with education so I taught school for a few years. I did however travel to some cool places and 10-12 years ago when there were considerably more WW2 vets around, interviewed some amazing people... a USS Indianapolis (look that one up) survivor comes to mind...surfers maybe can in a small way grasp that one better than the general public

  8. #38
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    Sep 2008
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    MD - VA
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    Since this thread has meandered a bit from the OP (meandering....it's what we do here) I'll toss three more into the winter ring of readership:

    'Dispatches' by Michael Herr........the Vietnam War in a nutshell

    'The Short Happy life of Francis Macomber' by Ernest Hemingway ........ the artist, Papa, and the story

    'The Art of Racing in the Rain' by Garth Stein ..... love dogs? this is cover-to-cover hard to put down once you start

    Enjoy

  9. #39
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    Aug 2012
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    Definitely gonna check out The Art of Racing in the Rain...dogs are so much cooler than humans.

  10. #40
    Nunn's second book is "Tijuana Straights" and is a great read. His third is "Dogs of Winter" and both of them are deep and dark with surfing being a theme through the book, but the stories are powerful and the character development intense. I call these books "surf noir." Love them! All for a few Perfect Waves was a great read, and Captain Zero was super fun, as much for the drug-running stories as anything else. Eddie Would Go is a must read as well.