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  1. #41
    Jamail Yogis, The author of "Saltwater Buddha" (which was very good) has a new book out this week that I really want to read called "The Fear Project."It's billed as en exploration of fear in the human mind, it's evolution, etc. through the lense of his own experience, including paddling out at Maverick's, etc. Pretty psyched to read it.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    maryland
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    killer angels by j shaara


    do u like litertaure ir just any ole shiznit?

  3. #43
    The Wave by Susan Casey is great and I second the recommendation for Kook. So good I had to read it twice.

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    MD - VA
    Posts
    8,130
    Quote Originally Posted by ragdolling View Post
    Jamail Yogis, The author of "Saltwater Buddha" (which was very good) has a new book out this week that I really want to read called "The Fear Project."It's billed as en exploration of fear in the human mind, it's evolution, etc. through the lense of his own experience, including paddling out at Maverick's, etc. Pretty psyched to read it.

    Thanks for flagging 'The Fear Project.' Just checked out the early reviews & ordered it.
    Looking forward to the read.

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Folly Beach
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    Check out Ghost Wave by Chris Dixon - it's a well written history of Cortez Bank with a deeper dive into the mind of the big wave surfer.

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    MD - VA
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    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    ...dogs are so much cooler than humans.
    Without a doubt.

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Typical swellinfo d*ckhead
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    1,244
    Thunderhead - Douglas Preston and Lincoln Child. Great book for the beach.

  8. #48
    West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief by Steven Kotler

    Bone Games: Extreme Sports, Shamanism, Zen, and the Search for Transcendence
    by Rob Schultheis

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    highlands, nj
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    I actually wrote a book about my combat marine experience during Operation Iraqi Freedom. It starts off with me surfing in Deal, NJ on September 11th. After realizing the smoke pouring down the coastline was from the terrorist attacks, I decided to go fight for our freedom. Its called The Song Each Bullet Sings and is available on Amazon. If you want to know why today's veterans and military are having such a tough time with PTSD and suicide, my story takes you with me into the war in Iraq. If you get it and enjoy it, please spread the word. Thanks

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/193...w_bottom_links
    Last edited by Mattyb; Aug 1, 2013 at 06:30 PM.

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Typical swellinfo d*ckhead
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    1,244
    Mattyb -
    #1 - thanks for your service.
    #2 - thanks for writing.
    #3 - Just ordered the book.