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  1. #71
    Currently reading - The Fear Project. Excellent.

    A little Emass... but...

    WAVES:
    GREAT: Ghost Wave: The Discovery of Cortes Bank and the Biggest Wave on Earth by Chris Dixon (Oct 12, 2011)
    MUST HAVE (great for NJ and beyond): Stormrider Guide North America (Stormrider Guides) by Bruce Sutherland (Jul 15, 2002)

    Talking Story:
    GREAT: Surf Is Where You Find It by Gerry Lopez (May 1, 2009)
    Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast by Daniel Duane (Apr 10, 1997)
    All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora by David Rensin (Mar 24, 2009)
    The Water's End by Christopher Hawkins (Jul 6, 2006)
    Lost Coast, The by Drew Kampion and Jeff Peterson (Dec 3, 2007)
    Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller
    Fierce Heart: The Story of Makaha and the Soul of Hawaiian Surfing by Stuart Holmes Coleman (Apr 28, 2009)

    Surf Philosophy:
    GREAT: West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief by Steven Kotler (May 29, 2007)
    Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea by Jaimal Yogis (May 1, 2009)

    Surf Fiction:
    CLASSIC: In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road by A. C. Weisbecker (Sep 16, 2002)
    Plus there’s Cosmic Banditos, and Can't You Get Along With Anyone?
    Tapping the Source by Kem Nunn (Dec 30, 2005)
    The Dogs of Winter by Kem Nunn (Mar 1, 1998)
    Tijuana Straits: A Novel by Kem Nunn (Oct 4, 2005)

    Fitness
    GREAT: Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul, And, of Course, Surfing by Laird Hamilton (Aug 31, 2010)
    GREAT: Fit to Surf : The Surfer's Guide to Strength and Conditioning by Rocky Snyder (Jul 1, 2003)

    Board appreciation:
    Greg Noll: The Art Of The Surfboard by Drew Kampion and Greg Noll (Apr 1, 2007)

    Business/Life inspiration:
    GREAT: Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman by Yvon Chouinard (Sep 5, 2006)
    Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life by Shaun Tomson and Patrick Moser (Sep 13, 2006)
    GREAT: Raising the Bar: Integrity and Passion in Life and Business: The Story of Clif Bar & Co. by Gary Erickson and Lois Lorentzen (Oct 27, 2006)

  2. #72
    Join Date
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    Hey Goofy Footer, is The Lost Coast good? If one has a thing for northern California, does it satisfy?

    Man, In Search of Captain Zero isn't fiction. Neither is CYGAWA. Dude, Captain Zero was in High Times and all. Alan Weisbecker is a real person. So is Lisa. No wonder Mr. Weisbecker pops pills and smokes so much.

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattyb View Post
    I actually wrote a book about my combat marine experience during Operation Iraqi Freedom. It starts off with me surfing in Deal, NJ on September 11th. After realizing the smoke pouring down the coastline was from the terrorist attacks, I decided to go fight for our freedom. Its called The Song Each Bullet Sings and is available on Amazon. If you want to know why today's veterans and military are having such a tough time with PTSD and suicide, my story takes you with me into the war in Iraq. If you get it and enjoy it, please spread the word. Thanks

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/193...w_bottom_links
    Even though he's from North Jersey, everyone(at least the regulars) should buy a copy of this book. Just do it. Spicoli, you should buy two.

    Jeez, MattyB don't be so modest. You should have told us you got a book published. You ever see Goodfellas where Jimmy's all excited that Tommy's getting made. Well, that's how I feel now.

    Nice accomplishment.

    I hope your mental health is good.

    People, don't be a-holes, and buy the dude's book.

  4. #74
    Quote Originally Posted by Paddington Jetty Bear View Post
    Hey Goofy Footer, is The Lost Coast good? If one has a thing for northern California, does it satisfy?

    Man, In Search of Captain Zero isn't fiction. Neither is CYGAWA. Dude, Captain Zero was in High Times and all. Alan Weisbecker is a real person. So is Lisa. No wonder Mr. Weisbecker pops pills and smokes so much.
    By fiction I was referring to Alan's loss of reality at times... he is writing what he remembers and with that, you never know.

    Lost Coast was good. I only posted what I enjoyed, there's a few I've read that didn't make this cut.

    Forgot to add: On a Wave. and Cliffs of Insanity. Both GREAT.

  5. #75
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    highlands, nj
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    Thanks PJB. I appreciate the positive support from everybody who gave it. If you want to read a chapter this website put up a nice post of the book today. Please check it out, gain perspective from one day in Iraq. Thanks

    http://theinterrobang.com/2013/08/wa...-book-excerpt/

  6. #76
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    herd of cats, usa
    Posts
    173

    #books

    2 years before the mast - richard henry dana (the dude dana point is named after)
    travels with charley in search of america - john steinbeck
    billy budd/bartleby/moby **** - herman melville
    rabbit, run - john updike
    new hampshire - robert frost
    "playing doc's games" - william finnegan --http://kingofkooks.blogspot.com/2009/12/playing-docs-games-new-yorker-1992.html
    surfers guide to southern california


    READ AMERICAN WRITERS---A HEALTHY SENSE OF NATIONALISM IS NOT A CRIME


    enjoy


    lifes too short to read just surfing books
    Last edited by cackedinri; Aug 4, 2013 at 01:06 AM. Reason: USA USA USA

  7. #77
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    VA Beach
    Posts
    1,117
    With the full understanding that the OP is almost 5 years old and jimmycrab has no doubt long returned from his trip, here are my 20th century American writer recommendations:

    Cannery Row and Log from the Sea of Cortez - both by John Steinbeck.
    The Old Man and the Sea - Ernest Hemingway.
    Chesapeake - James Mitchner.

  8. #78
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    MD - VA
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    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    Kathy, I told you, I'm finishing the book as fast as I can. Any disruptions will delay its completion. I'm really hoping you free me from captivity following its release. Thanks número uno!
    'Conversations' with your blow up doll are better left in your bedroom & not posted here, emhola hole.

  9. #79
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    MD - VA
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    Back to the thread:

    'Dispatches' by Michael Herr
    'The Art of Racing in the Rain' by Garth Stein

    .....agree with life's too short to read only surf books....but I do like the well-told surf tales

  10. #80
    Kon Tiki too!