Currently reading - The Fear Project. Excellent.

A little Emass... but...

WAVES:
GREAT: Ghost Wave: The Discovery of Cortes Bank and the Biggest Wave on Earth by Chris Dixon (Oct 12, 2011)
MUST HAVE (great for NJ and beyond): Stormrider Guide North America (Stormrider Guides) by Bruce Sutherland (Jul 15, 2002)

Talking Story:
GREAT: Surf Is Where You Find It by Gerry Lopez (May 1, 2009)
Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast by Daniel Duane (Apr 10, 1997)
All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora by David Rensin (Mar 24, 2009)
The Water's End by Christopher Hawkins (Jul 6, 2006)
Lost Coast, The by Drew Kampion and Jeff Peterson (Dec 3, 2007)
Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller
Fierce Heart: The Story of Makaha and the Soul of Hawaiian Surfing by Stuart Holmes Coleman (Apr 28, 2009)

Surf Philosophy:
GREAT: West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief by Steven Kotler (May 29, 2007)
Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea by Jaimal Yogis (May 1, 2009)

Surf Fiction:
CLASSIC: In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road by A. C. Weisbecker (Sep 16, 2002)
Plus there’s Cosmic Banditos, and Can't You Get Along With Anyone?
Tapping the Source by Kem Nunn (Dec 30, 2005)
The Dogs of Winter by Kem Nunn (Mar 1, 1998)
Tijuana Straits: A Novel by Kem Nunn (Oct 4, 2005)

Fitness
GREAT: Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul, And, of Course, Surfing by Laird Hamilton (Aug 31, 2010)
GREAT: Fit to Surf : The Surfer's Guide to Strength and Conditioning by Rocky Snyder (Jul 1, 2003)

Board appreciation:
Greg Noll: The Art Of The Surfboard by Drew Kampion and Greg Noll (Apr 1, 2007)

Business/Life inspiration:
GREAT: Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman by Yvon Chouinard (Sep 5, 2006)
Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life by Shaun Tomson and Patrick Moser (Sep 13, 2006)
GREAT: Raising the Bar: Integrity and Passion in Life and Business: The Story of Clif Bar & Co. by Gary Erickson and Lois Lorentzen (Oct 27, 2006)