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  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Manisses View Post
    Ditching is dangerous to you and others, but then again its a morey boogie. Still, you should duck dive it with your knees. As to the standing on the board, then diving into the face of the wave, I really can't imagine a more dangerous modus operandi. Buoyancy is a powerful force. A surfboard jumping out of the water hitting you in the undercarriage would prevent procreation or a host of other terrible things - like losing an eyeball.
    The only time I ditch my board is when it's huge, usually in the winter, and more than likely no one else is anywhere near me unless I paddled out with them. I admit you might lose your board and that is pretty dangerous to yourself. But if you've never had to ditch your board to get under a set of macking waves I'd wonder how serious of surf you've paddled into.

    It's one of those techniques that you will see people doing when it's really big. You ditch your board, you swim straight down just like you did when you were a kid playing in the surf and you get under all that white water. If you can keep your board attached after the initial impact you are good, then you just pull it with your body and swim out to sea and pop up. Get back on your board and paddle. You might have to wait out a whole set like this on the inside and then once it passes over you, you are in a position to paddle out past the bar instead of having been pushed halfway back into the beach because you couldn't get under the white water and each wave pushed you progressively further back in.

    I've paddled out into some gnarly stuff and that's typically the only time you will use that technique. I've lost my board and one day it took about 15 minutes before I found it on the inside swirling around in a circle. Nowadays I make sure it is very securely tied and I don't have problems.

    I actually picked this up from a friend of mine who would do it without thinking. When I asked him he told me he didn't ever ditch his board but I had seen him do it when I got washed in on a set and he eventually realized it was instinctive for him and he did it without thinking when he was about to take a bomb on the head. I also have seen video of guys at huge beach breaks in Mexico where they do almost exactly what I described.

  2. #22
    As for the guy diving off his board into the face of the wave, I found it odd. He did it every time he duck dived. To be fair to him he was pushing the board completely underwater by thrusting with his legs before he would dive but it still seemed unnecessary and possibly very dangerous.

  3. #23
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    Well I thought it was bad ass. I want him to draw me a pic of the guy crying... He's a hella artist.

    Quote Originally Posted by zaGaffer View Post
    Well that makes me feel let down, like I wasted my time posting all that.

    Stop Whining!

    LOL, somehow that makes me feel better though.

    How do you feel now? Better or worse?

    Tell you what for, 300$US and 6pack of Sculpin IPA (have your mommy buy it) I will give you a 2 hour, duck-diving a longboard lesson. Peanut butter sandwiches will be provided after the lesson. The crusts will not be cut off.
    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    Nice job Gaffer, you let the poor guy down. Even though you took the time to draw diagrams and explain thoroughly, you still let him down. Real nice.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BubbleToes View Post
    Well I thought it was bad ass. I want him to draw me a pic of the guy crying... He's a hella artist.
    I was being extremely sarcastic...I thought he went above and beyond trying to help the poor feller out. Another case of no good deed going unpunished.

  5. #25
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    Dude, I know that. I get jokes I think the guy was bogus for sayin that after he tried so hard to help him. Not cool.
    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    I was being extremely sarcastic...I thought he went above and beyond trying to help the poor feller out. Another case of no good deed going unpunished.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by BubbleToes View Post
    Dude, I know that. I get jokes I think the guy was bogus for sayin that after he tried so hard to help him. Not cool.
    Just making sure...at least the guy feels comfortable talking about his feelings.
    @ glassjaw, I'm with ya. I've ditched plenty of times to get under bomb sets, seen plenty of other guys do it. I always give a quick look to make sure no one is inside of me, if there is I'll just dive like regular.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by BubbleToes View Post
    But if you've never had to ditch your board to get under a set of macking waves I'd wonder how serious of surf you've paddled into.
    I only surf when its macking, brah. And the last time I ditched my board I was 12 years old.

  8. #28
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    ^^^^ I got jacked! Bwaahaa! Saweet! Just checkin bra

  9. #29
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    I just turned 13, btw... tehe....

  10. #30
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    LOL Umm I dunno about that... You're a pretty wise sage to be a grom...