Dude, I know that. I get jokes I think the guy was bogus for sayin that after he tried so hard to help him. Not cool.
Just making sure...at least the guy feels comfortable talking about his feelings.
@ glassjaw, I'm with ya. I've ditched plenty of times to get under bomb sets, seen plenty of other guys do it. I always give a quick look to make sure no one is inside of me, if there is I'll just dive like regular.
I'm still 13.... Well mentally... Got you beat. 13 in 1982!! I was freaking out to Van Halen hangin out at the record store in the mall. Yea things have changed! We can have hella more fun now! Only WE have to pay for it
Look on youtube for videos on duck diving.....Note the hand positioning on the board. I see a lot of people try to duck dive a board to far down from the nose to really push the board under where you can angle down below the wave.
Don't ditch the board unless you got some monster going to break on your board hard. I used to duck dive and try to come up too quick I found on big days and would be ripped from my board but now I dive deep and just wait till I feel the wave suck me back a little bit and then I know I'm good. I hold onto the board with a death grip because when its big your board is your best friend. When a 10 foot rolling head of whitewater is coming your way you'll wish you had your board under you instead of riding a washing machine. Got caught on the inside after missing the first wave of a set at Tres the other day and normally would have ditched the board but dove deep and popped through the next 3 waves breaking on me and/or in front of me. yewwww