My approach requires a little more finesse and a lot less muscle mass.
Here’s me on my 9’6” Malibu with 120 cubic ft of volume. There’s an approaching wave.
Attachment 6714
I push one side of the board down first, doesn’t matter which side, so I slice into the water like a knife:
Attachment 6715
Now the front and one side of the board is under water. Here’s how this kind of looks:
Attachment 6716
Once I have the nose under like this, I push down with the other hand and my foot or feet at the same time, this levels the board out. You want the board to be deep, but level under the wave. This takes some effort depending on the size of your board, but a lot less effort than just trying to muscle it under. This is all one movement too, it should be seemless.
Attachment 6717
Continue pushing down once the wave has begun to go past you and gently rise out the other side.
The nice thing about this, it works whether I have 0 momentum and am sitting in the lineup or paddling back out into it with plenty of speed; long board, short board, not a problem.