LOGIN | REGISTER

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 43
  1. #21
    A couple of other tips for ya

    1. On medium sized waves, say chest-head high, letting the front edge of the whitewater hit your lower back/butt area as you duck under can push you a little deeper before you have to level the board out and float to the surface. Once it gets much bigger than that getting blasted by the whitewater is more likely to rip the board from you hands.

    2. On long period swells try to stay under longer before surfacing by keeping the board flat for an extra second once you are at your max depth. This lets more of the whitewater flow over you before surfacing. On short period swells most of the energy is contained in a narrower band of whitewater so get to the top and start paddling quick to build up some momentum before the next wave gets to you.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Stayin' Classy in San Diego
    Posts
    2,190
    Quote Originally Posted by viajerodevida View Post
    I know what that feels like for shorter boards and have no issues there, but haven't felt it yet on the 9'2. I know nothing works better than time in the water, but I was sort of expecting you to tell me how that should feel for me on my longboard, and what I'm doing wrong. I feel a little let down.
    Well that makes me feel let down, like I wasted my time posting all that.

    Stop Whining!

    LOL, somehow that makes me feel better though.

    How do you feel now? Better or worse?

    Tell you what for, 300$US and 6pack of Sculpin IPA (have your mommy buy it) I will give you a 2 hour, duck-diving a longboard lesson. Peanut butter sandwiches will be provided after the lesson. The crusts will not be cut off.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Turtle Island
    Posts
    5,645
    Images
    6
    Nice job Gaffer, you let the poor guy down. Even though you took the time to draw diagrams and explain thoroughly, you still let him down. Real nice.

  4. #24
    I body board so duck diving is a little different for me than for stand up surfers. It's still extremely important on a big day to be able to paddle as hard as you can into that breaking wave and then get down under it as far as you can. Of course some times when it's really shallow and over head you can dive to the bottom and you aren't getting under the wave. Sometimes in that situation I will ditch my board, grab the leash as close to the board as I can and swim down on the sand upside down and paddle with my fins into the breaking wave while simultaneously snatching my leash to try and keep my board from getting sucked into the wave. You can break leashes this way but you will get out into some heavy surf as well. I've seen some guys on longboards use this strategy down in the obx as well.


    I saw something I had never seen before during that nice swell we got at the end of December. I guess everyone from VA went north or south because the oceanfront was pretty vacant for such a gnarly day. Anyways I saw these three guys paddle out. They weren't bad at all, I wouldn't say they were exceptional but they made it out and were dropping in on waves. One of the guys was paddling out into the waves, jumping up onto his feet right before the wave broke and pushing the board down with his feet and then diving into the face of the wave. It seemed to be working out for him but it was the first time I've ever seen it.

    Anyone do that or seen anyone else doing it?

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Northern New England
    Posts
    724
    Ditching is dangerous to you and others, but then again its a morey boogie. Still, you should duck dive it with your knees. As to the standing on the board, then diving into the face of the wave, I really can't imagine a more dangerous modus operandi. Buoyancy is a powerful force. A surfboard jumping out of the water hitting you in the undercarriage would prevent procreation or a host of other terrible things - like losing an eyeball.

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Manisses View Post
    Ditching is dangerous to you and others, but then again its a morey boogie. Still, you should duck dive it with your knees. As to the standing on the board, then diving into the face of the wave, I really can't imagine a more dangerous modus operandi. Buoyancy is a powerful force. A surfboard jumping out of the water hitting you in the undercarriage would prevent procreation or a host of other terrible things - like losing an eyeball.
    The only time I ditch my board is when it's huge, usually in the winter, and more than likely no one else is anywhere near me unless I paddled out with them. I admit you might lose your board and that is pretty dangerous to yourself. But if you've never had to ditch your board to get under a set of macking waves I'd wonder how serious of surf you've paddled into.

    It's one of those techniques that you will see people doing when it's really big. You ditch your board, you swim straight down just like you did when you were a kid playing in the surf and you get under all that white water. If you can keep your board attached after the initial impact you are good, then you just pull it with your body and swim out to sea and pop up. Get back on your board and paddle. You might have to wait out a whole set like this on the inside and then once it passes over you, you are in a position to paddle out past the bar instead of having been pushed halfway back into the beach because you couldn't get under the white water and each wave pushed you progressively further back in.

    I've paddled out into some gnarly stuff and that's typically the only time you will use that technique. I've lost my board and one day it took about 15 minutes before I found it on the inside swirling around in a circle. Nowadays I make sure it is very securely tied and I don't have problems.

    I actually picked this up from a friend of mine who would do it without thinking. When I asked him he told me he didn't ever ditch his board but I had seen him do it when I got washed in on a set and he eventually realized it was instinctive for him and he did it without thinking when he was about to take a bomb on the head. I also have seen video of guys at huge beach breaks in Mexico where they do almost exactly what I described.

  7. #27
    As for the guy diving off his board into the face of the wave, I found it odd. He did it every time he duck dived. To be fair to him he was pushing the board completely underwater by thrusting with his legs before he would dive but it still seemed unnecessary and possibly very dangerous.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Gtown TEXAS BABY!
    Posts
    68
    Well I thought it was bad ass. I want him to draw me a pic of the guy crying... He's a hella artist.

    Quote Originally Posted by zaGaffer View Post
    Well that makes me feel let down, like I wasted my time posting all that.

    Stop Whining!

    LOL, somehow that makes me feel better though.

    How do you feel now? Better or worse?

    Tell you what for, 300$US and 6pack of Sculpin IPA (have your mommy buy it) I will give you a 2 hour, duck-diving a longboard lesson. Peanut butter sandwiches will be provided after the lesson. The crusts will not be cut off.
    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    Nice job Gaffer, you let the poor guy down. Even though you took the time to draw diagrams and explain thoroughly, you still let him down. Real nice.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Turtle Island
    Posts
    5,645
    Images
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by BubbleToes View Post
    Well I thought it was bad ass. I want him to draw me a pic of the guy crying... He's a hella artist.
    I was being extremely sarcastic...I thought he went above and beyond trying to help the poor feller out. Another case of no good deed going unpunished.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Gtown TEXAS BABY!
    Posts
    68
    Dude, I know that. I get jokes I think the guy was bogus for sayin that after he tried so hard to help him. Not cool.
    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    I was being extremely sarcastic...I thought he went above and beyond trying to help the poor feller out. Another case of no good deed going unpunished.