
Originally Posted by
yourdirtymomma
O’ how I miss those first days of my kookiness…
When being pushed into a wave was a reason to live,
When riding the white water on your stomach was cause to smile,
When staying up for more than three seconds justified a victory stance.
O’ how I miss those first weeks of my kookiness…
When dropping in on my knees still counted as “dropping in”,
When accidently going down the line meant total triumph,
When catching the reform three times on one ride stoked me so much I couldn’t sleep.
O’ how I miss those first months of my kookiness…
When standing on top of a three foot wave scared me,
When six hours of trying plus six rides equaled ultimate success,
When I called myself “Queen Nose Dive of the Clan Flounder About” because that’s who I was.
O’ how I miss that first year of kookiness…
When wiping out on a big wave counted as surfing,
When just making it out in a hurricane swell meant the world was a better place,
When nothing felt more beautiful than my kook-poop-stance going left…again…for some unknown reason.
O’ how I miss the kookiness…
When “Wooooowhoooo”s flowed freely from me,
When nothing about me was embarrassed.
When I didn’t even know what kook meant.
O’ to be a kook again.