
Originally Posted by
chicharronne
it can get big. I was camping there for a month and thought I had it wired. My camp was in the circle of palms when you turn right at the end of the road. I waited for out going tide and almost made it over the top of 12' face. it beat me with my board and twisted me in odd shapes. it must have look bad from the beach, cause when I stumbled out of the water, people looked shocked I walked out. It looks easy but, sneaker sets come in a lot. the only time I almost drowned was there. I was out, this thing broke out on the horizon and nothing but a giant wall of white water rushed in. I turned and paddled like hell but was overtaken. I was pushed in front of the white water and it started walling up again. as I pushed down the nose and took a deep breath, I saw a drop of water come off the front and it went right down my wind pipe. I was wheezing and gasping as I dropped down the face with a death grip on my board. if I'da fallen off I'd be dead. After that, I always thought that was how Eddie Aikow died.