You were talking about the wave pushing the board and rider, which is usually taken to mean in a horizontal fashion.
That wasn't me dropping in, obviously. He attempted to snake and then dropped in and fell off.
BTW, you already posted this stupid video a few pages back and all I see is you dropping in some poor guy and then wrecklessly trying to stay standing as you weave through a group of people.
Weaving through the crowd while standing on a surfboard, so reckless I'm sure...
Please stop this...it's like a car accident that I can't look away from, but it never ends.
1. it is being pushed (tail being pushed upwards)
2. it is falling down, similar to how a car rolls down a hill.
But thats it for your board. Your board does not generate lift. I can not with one fin. Nor can you maximize leverage with your design. You are now trapped onto one spot on your board. it is clearly evident in your videos. This why your board losses so much speed when you make it to the shoulder or open face.
I really dont think you understand exactly what your board is doing. I think you understand how to make them, they look like they are put together great. But as for the why your board surfs the way it does.... I think you're in the dark.