Stop changing your story to fit your argument. You can't go back and add more info to justify your contradiction. You knew nothing of him riding your board until well after the fact, this you made clear. Just admit it, you're wrong, it's ok, it isn't the first and certainly won't be the last.
I have never 'changed my story' and the facts are as stated, I received a message from the caretaker of the board that randy wanted to ride it, display it at the pipeline masters and have some pro surfers ride it during the event.
I granted permission for him to do so... thus he did not ride the board 'at my request' as someone stated on this thread, and yes I did 'let' him ride the board as I had the power to veto it.. as I had throughout the board tour.
This is one of things that I take as an affront. WTF is pure surfing Chuck? Who the fvch are you or Roy or me or anybody to define what “pure surfing” is? There’s as much beauty and grace and “pure surfing” in punting a big air and camping on the nose as there is standing in the middle of the board. Some would argue more. It requires an incredible mastery of your board, the wave and your body to do what you don’t consider “pure surfing”.
I’ve seen part your quiver and I’m going to go out on a limb and guess that you’ve been surfing far less time than you’ve been word working and that you are in many ways a very novice surfer. That’s not meant to be offensive, but purely an observation. Have you ever ridden a potato chip at Trestles? A pig at Malibu? A gun at Sunset? A step-up at Pipeline? To say that Roy’s boards are more suited to pure surfing than any of those designs seems more like a wood worker’s opinion than a surfer’s. In my opinion, that’s pretty myopic. Surfing is both a very big world and a very small one. You’d be amazed at how small the circles run in the surfing hotspots. Everybody knows somebody and somebody knows everyone. What your riding matters a lot less than how you ride it.
Maybe you should keep a more open mind Chuck?
Actually za gaffer I like what you have said to me. I curently am a sufer of Malbu shapes and I also have some mini long boardes and and a few woodies I have experimented with. I have been surfing since I was 13, I am 24 now. I am certainly not from the worlds hot spot of surfing either, I would probably get crushed in whatever triple over head mavericks stuff you probably charge on short boards. But any how my statement regarding pure surfing is to my understanding a style of surfing which doesn't require board walking nor do any of the menuvers compliment high scores in a compition. I have always liked to surf fast and well controlled, I deal with allot of close out conditions from time to time where I'm from given the spot and the day ofcource so making it before the close out is always nice. I find that Roy's boards are very unique and beautiful and good for speed.
I'm a better surfer than a surfboard shaper to be perfectly clear. I've taken interest in Building Roy's boards recently, prior to me knowing about Roy I was using other wooden boards built by local shapers in my area and have always loved the carpenters surfing experience. A carpenter has the ability to make a cool surfboard from wood which is unique and special. As for pure surfing I guess any style which makes you grin like a fool and feel incredibly stoked is pure enough for me.
This is one of things that I take as an affront. WTF is pure surfing Chuck? Who the fvch are you or Roy or me or anybody to define what “pure surfing” is? There’s as much beauty and grace and “pure surfing” in punting a big air and camping on the nose as there is standing in the middle of the board.
ZA Gaffer: Thanks for occasionally interjecting something worth reading and thinking about in the middle of this horrid thread. "pure"...really?
I'm always surprised how often the term "soul" is connected with certain types of surfing, as though other kinds of surfing objectively lack soul.
Still hanging on the edge of my chair to find out the resolution to whether Randy Rarick did, or did not, have advance permission to test Roy's board with Roy's awareness. I've been wondering about that for years.