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  1. #841
    Quote Originally Posted by MFitz73 View Post
    looks like a great family surf session. Must have been a nice afternoon.
    Yes it was, we had 15 people on board the bus, including out first grandson aged 3 months. Parked opposite the three level pole house which I built and lived in when first married in '88, Whale Bay has an incredible sub tropical micro climate, it's a gem of a place.

  2. #842
    How big of a wave have you taken that thing out on? I'd like to see some footage of you duck diving that horse.

  3. #843
    Quote Originally Posted by chicharronne View Post
    How big of a wave have you taken that thing out on? I'd like to see some footage of you duck diving that horse.
    Duck diving big boards is not a feasible method, the correct way is to roll under, a technique which most who try don't do right.

    That particular board has been out in head high to head and a half high waves but other boards of similar size and several feet bigger I've had out many times in waves three to four times overhead. Rolling under is very effective in such waves provided that the boards are not too light and provided that the rails have a shape which allows a very strong grip.

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  4. #844
    Quote Originally Posted by Roy Stuart View Post
    That particular board has been out in head high to head and a half high waves but other boards of similar size and several feet bigger I've had out many times in waves three to four times overhead.
    Can't wait to see that vid!

  5. #845
    on this side of the earth, it's called turning turtle. I've tried it once in CR on an overhead day with a 9 footer with no success. An older guy we called papa surf( because he looked like papa smurf) could get it out with no effort. I was content using my 7'2.

  6. #846
    The usual mistake is to grasp the rails too far forward, but it does depend upon the board.

    A second big mistake is to lie under the board horizontally and/or to grip the tail with the feet.

    In bigger surf I used to be able to get out the back when caught inside as fast or faster than shortboarders do, provided that the swell period was long enough ( say 11 seconds plus). In short period waves with size it's harder to keep up with the duck divers as it takes a tad longer to roll upright and get paddling again than it does when duckdiving. With sufficient gap between the waves the faster paddling speed of the longboard makes up for the extra time taken to roll.... but in either case most of the time no more distance is lost during the roll than it is with duckdiving, provided that the roll under technique is correct.


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  7. #847
    Papa said to flip over, grab the nose, and drag it down. then twist it as the wave goes over, pop up laying on the board, and keep paddling. right. Had no problem with the 1st 2 steps. it's the getting slammed and dragged part that I added to it that made it unsuccessful.

  8. #848
    Here we go again...only the gnome knows how to turtle roll correctly and only his boards have rails that facilitate a proper grip during a roll. Sheeesh, when will the ego trip stop.

  9. #849
    Best not to grab the nose. or twist the board.

    What happens when trying to drag the nose down is that unless you have negative buoyancy all you'll do is pull your body up... typically then the wave will get under the nose and flip you and the board you'll then cartwheel... that's the worst possible result.


    The best way is to grip further back and drive the body downwards vertically to act as a sea anchor... if this raises the board at all the nose will be tipped downwards provided that you are holding the rails behind the balance point of the board. If the board is heavy enough ( say 15 to 20 pounds) then it won't be lifted up when you drive yourself down. It also helps to have some nose rocker so that when flipped the nose slopes down into the water, this prevents the wave from getting under the nose.

    Also at the moment of impact if one is wearing a helmet the grip can be increased by pulling the board down onto the head.

    The technique changes when paddling up the face of a breaking wave as the board needs to be punched through the lip, in that case it is vital to grip the board even further back and to thrust it outwards and through the lip, the board will punch through and then the nose will drop down the back of the wave and drag the rider through the lip. NEVER try to punch through the breaking lip be holding the board towards the nose as then the tail will drop, presenting a large area to the wave face... cartwheeling in the worst possible way is the result of this folly.

    The technique which you describe is used by those who ride very lightweight longboards often with not much rocker, there's really no way to roll under a lightweight longboard well, particularly if wearing a buoyant wetsuit.


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    Last edited by Roy Stuart; Mar 28, 2014 at 09:33 PM.

  10. #850
    Quote Originally Posted by goosemagoo View Post
    Here we go again...only the gnome knows how to turtle roll correctly and only his boards have rails that facilitate a proper grip during a roll. Sheeesh, when will the ego trip stop.
    To be honest I'm the only one who seems to know how to roll under correctly, I've ridden heavy leashless longboards of 10 to 17 feet long in some pretty big surf for many years.

    The point regarding the rail shape is not correct however, most longboards ( except SUPs ) have suitable rail shapes, their main issue is that they are often too light.