as most of you know this morning and afternoon surf was clean and shoulder to head high on F.I. I dropped in more than a few overhead bombs breaking on the outer bar.. Who else scored, I wana hear about it.
Me and the Mrs. had a Sunday Special in the afternoon while the kid was taking a nap.
Oh you meant the waves, for 2 hours it was near-perfect, Chest-HH glass. Starting at about 9:30 - 10:00, the out going tide was just right and it was breaking on the outer reef; giving up 100 yd peelers like clockwork. No waits between sets. Donkeys didn't even show up for the first hour. Around 12:30, west wind started picking up. For another hour it was decent, but started getting crumbly. Wind really started hitting at about 1:30.
I did have some weekend warrior paddle out next to me on a plastic mini-mal. I was pretty much wearing a perma-grin from the moment I got out yesterday, so after catching a couple of waves around dude that he wasn't going for, I shot him one. Which of course he took as, "Oh this guy wants to say, HI!" Instead of, "Wow I bet my face looks just like that because the waves are so eFFFIINNN GOOOD" (there were a lot of smilin, faced, happy campers in Lake Pacifica yesteday). So he paddles right up to me and says, "I'll try to stay out of your way out here, just let me know if I get in it." I chuckled. The reef was pretty darn empty for a Sunday morning, I recognized pretty much everyone out. "Don't worry man, it's all good, you won't get in my way.", I said. He said, " I'm still in the learning phase." I started laughing even harder, "Me too man, I'm still in the learnin phase too. Ain't it great?" He kind of looked confused by that, poor guy.
Monmouth County at dawn was a mess everyone who attempted to paddle out got about 30 feet and came back in. Sure it shaped up in the afternoon though. Definately much bigger then shoulder high out there on the outer bar at that time.