I'm so tired of these priority BS posts, the waves are not "your waves" or "my waves", no one owns nature. That is where the problem starts, people thinking they are owed something or that they have staked some claim at their local surf break.
so you're saying that if a kook like me with my gopro on the nose of my board comes zooming down the drop in while you're on the inside and I don't drop off you're gonna be cool w that? I agree with the others... rules are in place for a reason. Hence... why I posted this in the first place. I'm learning, and I need to know these things.
I try to have a good attitude out there and am usually very respectful of others but it's hard when you don't know the rules. We all just wanna chill and have a good time, right?
For some reason that particular day I opened my mouth - the only time I've ever done that over a wave. Maybe I took on too much water that day, idk. Maybe it was just the overall vibe at swamis?
I've watched someone get hit in the head with a surfboard and nearly drown when it was right around waist high. His heart was stopped on the beach as we started performing CPR. Luckily, EMTs arrived quickly and utilized a defibrillator to save his life.
Safety has everything to do with it. Respect the ocean, even when it's flat.
This is why we have rules. No one needs to drown or get a fin up their a**. The ocean itself is a dangerous place and if you don't realize that, then you need to stay on shore.