yeah, full rubber all year except , switching to 4/3 for summer and maybe a shorty or trunks for those 2 weeks in August. The lakes are even colder, we were dodging sheet ice a few weeks ago. Kinda sketchy.
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Thread: lost the stoke
Mar 15, 2013, 02:26 PM #51Member
- Join Date
- May 2012
Mar 15, 2013, 03:01 PM #52
Reading a lot of good stuff on here. Like Yankee and DosXX, I have also been down that road. Since I put the plug in the jug, surfing has really played an important role in staying on the right road. It used to be a rite of passage to hit dawn patrol still in a bit of a fog, but eventually just led to skipping the surf altogether.
Surfrat 6, you mentioned most of the guys you started with are done. In the last few months, I have run into 4 guys I grew up surfing with at a break that no longer exists (Logs in Northern Mo Co) that are still actively surfing. Were talking 5ml, hood, boots, gloves surfing because they still love it. Must have been something in the water at Logs.
Mar 15, 2013, 08:47 PM #54
My advise would be to exercise more. I go through phases where I do a little more partying than is healthy and it gets easier to skip out on the early morning session or stop by your buddy's to partake the more you do it. In the past year or two, I've made an effort to mountain bike more, skateboard more and wakeboard more, and it definitely makes it easier to surf when you're body and especially your lungs are healthy.
Mar 16, 2013, 02:43 AM #55
I kind of felt the same way about golf the last couple years but for some reason recently I got the desire to get back out there this year.Surfing on the East Coast you need some backup plans.I say don't force it,when you feel it, you'll know it.Sometimes you have to step away to miss it.Looks like your from N.J. After Sandy im sure alot of people lost the stoke.Its kind of depressing going to the beach still even thou things are getting a little better.I just got back in the water last month for the first time since Sandy.
Last edited by GoodVibes; Mar 16, 2013 at 02:52 AM.
Mar 16, 2013, 03:48 AM #56Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
surfing nj is totally different since the storm. so is living here. a sad new world.
Mar 16, 2013, 06:31 AM #57Junior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2012
you guys are great. thank you for all the positive vibes - i think its just time to reevaluate some things and see where surfing belongs in my life and go from there
Mar 16, 2013, 05:08 PM #58
You'll be back. I went through same thing a few years back. Went on a trip to San Diego and had no desire to surf. Felt disconnected with nature.
Crowds have multiplied exponentially in the last few years. It's especially tough in NY where the crowds are maddening in the summer and the winter is so cold it's just painful.
Nothing satisfies like surfing, though. You just have to keep plugging away and those special days when all the work pays off happen.
Mar 16, 2013, 06:13 PM #59
beachbreak... well said... "a sad new world" is the only real way to describe life for so many among us. Our once beautifully historic towns and proud communities now stand broken in both a physical and spiritual sense. Surfing is not the same. You're so right. For many, it may be the end of life as they knew it. Others will pick up the shards and soldier on, hoping to restore their homes, their families, and their souls.
I surfed with a guy the other day, who hadn't surfed in months. The storm had taken it's toll on him and his family, and he could not find the time nor the will to get back in the water. His stoke was all but dead. I had been asking him to just give it all a rest and just go surfing, but he just couldn't. Sure, there were excuses... there are always reasons not to surf - "gotta meet the contractor"..."my back hurts"..."I lost my gloves." But the reality was, he was depressed. Finally, on Wednesday, I gave him a pair of gloves, and insisted he join me for a surf. He got three waves. Was he stoked? Well... I'm not really sure. Not fully, that's for sure. But at least it cracked open the door... one step closer to getting back to living again.
So I guess what I'm suggesting is... maybe there's no magic bullet. Maybe it's a process. Maybe getting your stoke back has something to do with how you lost it in the first place.
One thing for sure, though... reading these posts... it's different for everybody.
Mar 17, 2013, 01:44 AM #60Banned
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
- Impacting the Coast for Jesus
If you want to get the stoke back watch this link and share. Awesome video. Yes it is a surfing video but there is way more to it. If you know me, you know what it is about. This is stoke , this is real, this is how Jesus works in peoples lives.
Last edited by sonfollowerssurf; Mar 17, 2013 at 01:47 AM.