U used to be happy living a strong true forward life. Quit thinking n live. Life will change fast enough. I'm 43 n just reactivated it again. 13 years later. Nature and feeling it in such a changing state can not be explained. Live it, feel it , n try it more. Enjoy
It's sunrise right now at 5:45AM on a day with CLEAN 4-5FT MEDIUM PERIOD WAVES ALL DAMN DAY. I woke up, made some homemade wax since the shop was closed yesterday, turned on Riding Giants and some EDM while I ate some fruit and pounded water and a Monster energy. Sitting I'm my heated truck now watching the sun come up and stoked to get better today and have a blast doing it. Feeling privileged.
Never take things for granted. Seems Costa has jaded you in some way. The drinking plays a big part also. It depresses you and makes you not want to do anything. I'm 40 and didn't surf much this winter because the days were shorter and didn't have the time to hit the window when it was good. But I never lost the stoke. I just started working out and running. I dropped 20lbs and feel so much better. Now when it does fire I'm ready. I thought if I didn't surf I would get worse but it is quit the opposite. Doing something else active pulls your mind away from always thinking about surfing and gives you confidence that your ready when it does go off. Think of it as training for surfing. Oh, and a lot of younger guys get caught up in the drinking drugs party scene. Sometimes that is a hard thing to pull yourself away from. Look at the people you surround yourself with. Good Luck.
too many people are bull****ters and spend so much time standing on the dunes with their arms crossed sipping coffee....."its closed out... it was better the other day.....its choppy....theres current...." sick of those pussies more waves for me.
And reguardless of your money situation, you can budget to get a good wetsuit. If you have a sick wetsuit quiver that is stretchy and warm you are so much more motivated to go out. I have a 6/5 and a 4/3 so no matter how rough it is i know im not going to get cold.
+1 on both points...those types crack me up, like they're too cool to go out when it's not perfect. The money thing too, I'm pretty much living week to week at the moment but once you have the gear(which is relatively affordable in comparison to other "hobbies") all you have to do is show up.
At 44 i decided to take off 5 months and surf warm water all winter. Been in pr. Incredible waves. Tons of old guys down here in 50's 60's still surfing well in3x overhead and bigger. Really lifted my spirits, gave me hope i will still be paddling out for waves in the years to come. Sunrise sessions always get me stoked.
Where are you located?
While I don't personally need others to motivate me to surf, it certainly increases my "stoke" factor when there are others to enjoy it with. It also holds you more accountable if you are supposed to meet someone at 530 in the morning for a session.
While it takes extra motivation to wake up early, I feel like those days are the best days I have.
Was thinking this afternoon that I wasn't stoked enough with a great summer day and the Carver but with no waves. So I threw two SBs in the truck and headed out to Rhodey to meet up with an SI brah for shoulder-high swell. Getting down there in an hour or so to surf til dark. Definitely a good choice. Need to be stoked!!
So I threw two SBs in the truck and headed out to Rhodey to meet up with an SI brah for shoulder-high swell.
Do tell, Ghost of SJB needs names!!! HAHA Dude, glad you scored, an hour drive is nothing, and well worth it, I'd drive 4hrs for a shoulder high wave right now dude, i know i'm a bit nutz, but hey, what can ya do when you are hooked?
Bro it's 2.5hrs each way with traffic. Not that it's a bad deal at all. Can't wait for first wave best wave.
Oh, by reading your post it looked like you meant it takes just over an hour to get there. 2.5hrs is about what it takes for me to get to NSB / Ponce Inlets, which I obviously have no problems with doing if there is so much of a ripple out there.
I really want to surf up that way one of these days, I still have family that lives in Saugus MA, I could swing by to say hello to my great aunt & uncle and hit the breaks out there. One day... hopefully before they are gone, as they are up there in age.