Bodysurfing has revived my stoke, and becoming a lifeguard. Now I get paid to watch people and waves all day. It's like an arena and I sit up higher above and can see waves break for blocks and blocks around, mind-surfing the shizz outta 'em. The "beater bros" keep me fired up, those kids from the skate park and the shop charge it and have a blast. Just turned 30, having the time of my life!
Results 81 to 90 of 91
Thread: lost the stoke
Jul 9, 2014, 10:54 PM #82
Heading down to RI myself tonight. Looks decent for tomorrow morning. This guy sounds like a bummer.. Get stoked on life man.. waves are just one of the many aspects of life worth waking up for. I'll be on it at 5am first light.
Jul 10, 2014, 12:16 AM #83
I'll take NJ winter cold and no crowds any day over July heat and mobs of people at my home breaks. Looking forward to the 3rd week of August when the crowds thin as college students and shoobies begin packing it in. Then around Halloween when the water temp starts to tumble further thinning the crowds. Then after Thanksgiving when it really clears out.
Jul 10, 2014, 01:24 AM #84
Bros, well my intuition that driving 3 hours each way for a 1.5 hour sunset sesh would re-energize my stoke was right on. Best session of my life. Nailed every takeoff in fading chest to shoulder swell and got back up to the lip on two of them. May have even smacked it on one. Such a good decision to charge tonight.
Jul 10, 2014, 01:42 AM #85
Jul 10, 2014, 01:53 AM #86
And to the OP, move and do something else for awhile. If surfing means anything to you, you'll get the itch again no worries. If not, go enjoy the mountains, rivers, and micro breweries scattered about this great country's interior
Jul 10, 2014, 02:06 AM #87
Nice bro. The beach that is next after the first was straight up packed but highly functional. Couple a shredding wahines too. Always good for our circulatory systems.
Jul 10, 2014, 03:43 AM #88Member
- Join Date
- May 2010
I'm glad I haven't lost it yet, hopefully never will. I too will surf the weak stuff when the water is this warm. Water never gets too cold here, so I'm good all year. Definitely love the warmer water, even though it means more crowds. A nice first session after a flat spell is always energizing for me as well.
Jul 12, 2014, 04:52 PM #89Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
You just gotta keep going and it comes back i had a rough couple of years my best friend who got me into surfing died in 2008 from drugs then i went down that same path in 2010 i lost my liscence for 2 years and i didn't get into the water that much and had no one to surf with it took awhile to get used to surfing by myself but eventually i cleaned myself up got off drugs and booze and this past year i feel more and more stoked after every session, i really couldn't imagine my life without it, and now that i frequent the same spots at lbi i'm starting to get to know a lot of the regulars down there even though i'm always rolling solo i've been running into some familiar faces which is cool. It did take awhile to get the stoke back though i had to go back to the fun board for a little while two years ago, then i bought a hypto krypto and i'm glad i did because it made surfing so much more fun for me.
Jul 12, 2014, 04:55 PM #90