U used to be happy living a strong true forward life. Quit thinking n live. Life will change fast enough. I'm 43 n just reactivated it again. 13 years later. Nature and feeling it in such a changing state can not be explained. Live it, feel it , n try it more. Enjoy
It's sunrise right now at 5:45AM on a day with CLEAN 4-5FT MEDIUM PERIOD WAVES ALL DAMN DAY. I woke up, made some homemade wax since the shop was closed yesterday, turned on Riding Giants and some EDM while I ate some fruit and pounded water and a Monster energy. Sitting I'm my heated truck now watching the sun come up and stoked to get better today and have a blast doing it. Feeling privileged.
Never take things for granted. Seems Costa has jaded you in some way. The drinking plays a big part also. It depresses you and makes you not want to do anything. I'm 40 and didn't surf much this winter because the days were shorter and didn't have the time to hit the window when it was good. But I never lost the stoke. I just started working out and running. I dropped 20lbs and feel so much better. Now when it does fire I'm ready. I thought if I didn't surf I would get worse but it is quit the opposite. Doing something else active pulls your mind away from always thinking about surfing and gives you confidence that your ready when it does go off. Think of it as training for surfing. Oh, and a lot of younger guys get caught up in the drinking drugs party scene. Sometimes that is a hard thing to pull yourself away from. Look at the people you surround yourself with. Good Luck.
too many people are bull****ters and spend so much time standing on the dunes with their arms crossed sipping coffee....."its closed out... it was better the other day.....its choppy....theres current...." sick of those pussies more waves for me.
And reguardless of your money situation, you can budget to get a good wetsuit. If you have a sick wetsuit quiver that is stretchy and warm you are so much more motivated to go out. I have a 6/5 and a 4/3 so no matter how rough it is i know im not going to get cold.
+1 on both points...those types crack me up, like they're too cool to go out when it's not perfect. The money thing too, I'm pretty much living week to week at the moment but once you have the gear(which is relatively affordable in comparison to other "hobbies") all you have to do is show up.
At 44 i decided to take off 5 months and surf warm water all winter. Been in pr. Incredible waves. Tons of old guys down here in 50's 60's still surfing well in3x overhead and bigger. Really lifted my spirits, gave me hope i will still be paddling out for waves in the years to come. Sunrise sessions always get me stoked.
Where are you located?
While I don't personally need others to motivate me to surf, it certainly increases my "stoke" factor when there are others to enjoy it with. It also holds you more accountable if you are supposed to meet someone at 530 in the morning for a session.
While it takes extra motivation to wake up early, I feel like those days are the best days I have.