U used to be happy living a strong true forward life. Quit thinking n live. Life will change fast enough. I'm 43 n just reactivated it again. 13 years later. Nature and feeling it in such a changing state can not be explained. Live it, feel it , n try it more. Enjoy
Results 71 to 80 of 91
Thread: lost the stoke
Apr 25, 2013, 03:38 AM #71
Apr 25, 2013, 09:51 AM #72
It's sunrise right now at 5:45AM on a day with CLEAN 4-5FT MEDIUM PERIOD WAVES ALL DAMN DAY. I woke up, made some homemade wax since the shop was closed yesterday, turned on Riding Giants and some EDM while I ate some fruit and pounded water and a Monster energy. Sitting I'm my heated truck now watching the sun come up and stoked to get better today and have a blast doing it. Feeling privileged.
Apr 25, 2013, 11:34 AM #73
Never take things for granted. Seems Costa has jaded you in some way. The drinking plays a big part also. It depresses you and makes you not want to do anything. I'm 40 and didn't surf much this winter because the days were shorter and didn't have the time to hit the window when it was good. But I never lost the stoke. I just started working out and running. I dropped 20lbs and feel so much better. Now when it does fire I'm ready. I thought if I didn't surf I would get worse but it is quit the opposite. Doing something else active pulls your mind away from always thinking about surfing and gives you confidence that your ready when it does go off. Think of it as training for surfing. Oh, and a lot of younger guys get caught up in the drinking drugs party scene. Sometimes that is a hard thing to pull yourself away from. Look at the people you surround yourself with. Good Luck.
Apr 25, 2013, 12:07 PM #74
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Turtle Island
At 44 i decided to take off 5 months and surf warm water all winter. Been in pr. Incredible waves. Tons of old guys down here in 50's 60's still surfing well in3x overhead and bigger. Really lifted my spirits, gave me hope i will still be paddling out for waves in the years to come. Sunrise sessions always get me stoked.
Apr 25, 2013, 12:51 PM #76Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- bethany beach
Where are you located?
While I don't personally need others to motivate me to surf, it certainly increases my "stoke" factor when there are others to enjoy it with. It also holds you more accountable if you are supposed to meet someone at 530 in the morning for a session.
While it takes extra motivation to wake up early, I feel like those days are the best days I have.
Jul 9, 2014, 08:46 PM #77
Was thinking this afternoon that I wasn't stoked enough with a great summer day and the Carver but with no waves. So I threw two SBs in the truck and headed out to Rhodey to meet up with an SI brah for shoulder-high swell. Getting down there in an hour or so to surf til dark. Definitely a good choice. Need to be stoked!!
Jul 9, 2014, 09:17 PM #78
Jul 9, 2014, 09:20 PM #79
Bro it's 2.5hrs each way with traffic. Not that it's a bad deal at all. Can't wait for first wave best wave.
Jul 9, 2014, 09:28 PM #80
I really want to surf up that way one of these days, I still have family that lives in Saugus MA, I could swing by to say hello to my great aunt & uncle and hit the breaks out there. One day... hopefully before they are gone, as they are up there in age.