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Thread: lost the stoke

  1. #81
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    ocmd
    Posts
    705
    Images
    10
    Bodysurfing has revived my stoke, and becoming a lifeguard. Now I get paid to watch people and waves all day. It's like an arena and I sit up higher above and can see waves break for blocks and blocks around, mind-surfing the shizz outta 'em. The "beater bros" keep me fired up, those kids from the skate park and the shop charge it and have a blast. Just turned 30, having the time of my life!

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Watertown, Massachusetts, United States
    Posts
    53
    Heading down to RI myself tonight. Looks decent for tomorrow morning. This guy sounds like a bummer.. Get stoked on life man.. waves are just one of the many aspects of life worth waking up for. I'll be on it at 5am first light.

  3. #83
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Promontorium Tremendum
    Posts
    929
    Images
    1
    shedding rubber does wonders for your surf attitude. water's 84 degrees here and i'll go surf slop that i wouldn't have looked twice at 4 months ago.

  4. Quote Originally Posted by hanna View Post
    shedding rubber does wonders for your surf attitude. water's 84 degrees here and i'll go surf slop that i wouldn't have looked twice at 4 months ago.
    Funny I'm the complete opposite. The one thing that kills my stoke is crowds. This evening for example a spot a few blocks from my house was pretty good considering its July. Unfortunately there were 30 people scrapping over a peak where there were enough waves for 8 at most. Other nearby spots weren't very good and had small packs on them too. I went home and tinkered with a surfboard a bit and now I'm on here......its still daylight.

    I'll take NJ winter cold and no crowds any day over July heat and mobs of people at my home breaks. Looking forward to the 3rd week of August when the crowds thin as college students and shoobies begin packing it in. Then around Halloween when the water temp starts to tumble further thinning the crowds. Then after Thanksgiving when it really clears out.

  5. #85
    Bros, well my intuition that driving 3 hours each way for a 1.5 hour sunset sesh would re-energize my stoke was right on. Best session of my life. Nailed every takeoff in fading chest to shoulder swell and got back up to the lip on two of them. May have even smacked it on one. Such a good decision to charge tonight.

  6. #86
    Quote Originally Posted by ElSalt View Post
    Heading down to RI myself tonight. Looks decent for tomorrow morning. This guy sounds like a bummer.. Get stoked on life man.. waves are just one of the many aspects of life worth waking up for. I'll be on it at 5am first light.
    Bro, you're gonna be stoked. It cleaned up pretty well tonight there and will only get cleaner. Size dropped some but you should have waist-stomach and clean all day.

  7. #87
    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    Bro, you're gonna be stoked. It cleaned up pretty well tonight there and will only get cleaner. Size dropped some but you should have waist-stomach and clean all day.
    Got out of the water an hour ago, having a beer now. Mornin' is looking fun.


    And to the OP, move and do something else for awhile. If surfing means anything to you, you'll get the itch again no worries. If not, go enjoy the mountains, rivers, and micro breweries scattered about this great country's interior

  8. #88
    Nice bro. The beach that is next after the first was straight up packed but highly functional. Couple a shredding wahines too. Always good for our circulatory systems.

  9. #89
    I'm glad I haven't lost it yet, hopefully never will. I too will surf the weak stuff when the water is this warm. Water never gets too cold here, so I'm good all year. Definitely love the warmer water, even though it means more crowds. A nice first session after a flat spell is always energizing for me as well.

  10. #90
    You just gotta keep going and it comes back i had a rough couple of years my best friend who got me into surfing died in 2008 from drugs then i went down that same path in 2010 i lost my liscence for 2 years and i didn't get into the water that much and had no one to surf with it took awhile to get used to surfing by myself but eventually i cleaned myself up got off drugs and booze and this past year i feel more and more stoked after every session, i really couldn't imagine my life without it, and now that i frequent the same spots at lbi i'm starting to get to know a lot of the regulars down there even though i'm always rolling solo i've been running into some familiar faces which is cool. It did take awhile to get the stoke back though i had to go back to the fun board for a little while two years ago, then i bought a hypto krypto and i'm glad i did because it made surfing so much more fun for me.