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  1. #21
    What happened to just dropping the family off and coming back for your well hidden board? Alone you could surely improvise something.
    That board would have been in the car with me, even if sticking out of windows like wings...but I understand the clutch moment and family compromise..

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Seattle, WA
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    485
    Quote Originally Posted by leethestud View Post
    live aloha, this rant is not very "aloha".
    ha! indeed-aroo. gotta share the anti-stoke sometimes too.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Jacksonville FL
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    best / worst story i have ever read. Emergency things I always travel with near or far that could have saved this story:
    1. Churchills
    2. Jumbo roll of flesh colored duct tape

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stranded in Smithfield View Post
    best / worst story i have ever read. Emergency things I always travel with near or far that could have saved this story:
    2. Jumbo roll of flesh colored duct tape
    In case you forget your trunks and have to construct some fleshtone boardies?

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Seattle, WA
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    485
    Quote Originally Posted by Stranded in Smithfield View Post
    best / worst story i have ever read. Emergency things I always travel with near or far that could have saved this story:
    1. Churchills
    2. Jumbo roll of flesh colored duct tape
    I was initially hoping some body surf would be in order. The reef was way the hell offshore though. I do not know the Caribbean at all, and I took one look at the paddle/swim and decided it was definitely not worth the risk, especially since there were a total of zero people out there. Why were there no people surfing this amazing friggen wave? I have no idea.

    A previous poster (I forget who) said something about Cinnamon Bay being a right...maybe I got the name of the spot wrong. I think that guy was probably correct with the other name that he mentioned...not too sure. From what I could tell, it was the only decent wave on the island, at least on that particular day.

  6. #26
    My buddy went to Barbados for his honeymoon. real experienced surfer, moved here from Hawaii, then to the OBX. he went out at soup bowls alone. His bride was on the beach when his board washed up without him. Seems a sneaker set came in and reamed him. He told me that a sponger was out and gave him a piggy back ride to the beach. He's 5' nothing so it wasn't a big deal. I'm 6'5" so I'da had a long swim in. wouldn't have been the first nor last time for that.

  7. #27
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    Oct 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by chicharronne View Post
    My buddy went to Barbados for his honeymoon. real experienced surfer, moved here from Hawaii, then to the OBX. he went out at soup bowls alone. His bride was on the beach when his board washed up without him. Seems a sneaker set came in and reamed him. He told me that a sponger was out and gave him a piggy back ride to the beach. He's 5' nothing so it wasn't a big deal. I'm 6'5" so I'da had a long swim in. wouldn't have been the first nor last time for that.
    Those long swims are spooky for me, especially in unfamiliar places. I used to surf Laniakea on Oahu pretty often, once had a leash snap on a big day. I remember realizing the fact when I looked toward land and saw the board a good 100 yds away. Then I turned around and saw a big macker literally land on my head. Made the long swim without any problems, and that gave me the confidence that I could always do it if necessary.

    This Caribbean place though...open water paddle across what looked like close to a half km of deep water? I think I would have done it no problem had there been at least a person or two out there (and if I had a board). I am cautious about paddling out to random spots without any local knowledge. I used to do that in NorCal when I first started surfing...got hurt ALL THE TIME, jacked up boards, got cuts on my feet from the gnarly rocks, really spooky sharky feelings, etc. It was totally worth it then, but it's kind of a miracle that some random sh!t didn't kill me for all that stupidity. I suppose that's how we get "experience": make lots of mistakes and learn from each of them.

  8. #28
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    A previous poster (I forget who) said something about Cinnamon Bay being a right...maybe I got the name of the spot wrong. I think that guy was probably correct with the other name that he mentioned...not too sure. From what I could tell, it was the only decent wave on the island, at least on that particular day.
    Was the reef way offshore like too far to swim? Did you see this reef from the overlook on top of the mountain? If so it was Johnson's reef that supposedly is really fun when the tide is right and the swell is big. Anything but high tide and its too shallow. If you were on the beach (small and narrow) with the main road right behind it you were on trunk bay. I'm pretty sure that Johnson's reef is visible from Trunk Bay off the point of land to the right and also from cinnamon bay to the left. It's far out there though and would be a crazy paddle to get there. The reef at cinnamon breaks off the one side and produces a lumpy kind of weird right. It's not that far out even on the biggest day so I doubt you would have hesitated to go out there.

  9. #29
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    Oct 2009
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    Oh okay, this sounds about right. I had the names mixed up. I did see the little right, which looked fun but definitely not good for the bodysurf. It would have been fun on a shortboard, but alas...also ironic that they were renting every time of watercraft imaginable near that place, from windsurf gear to kayaks...but no surfboards. I would have even gone for a booger, but none of those either.

    From your description, I was definitely looking at Johnson's reef. Btw, do you spend a lot of time there? I can tell exactly what you are talking about from your description, pretty cool. Maybe it was breaking shallow and that's why it was empty. It was definitely big. We first noticed it while standing on the beach at (Cinnamon), and you could see it going off from really far away. We got a closer look from the top of the mountain, kind of looking straight out in front of it.

  10. #30
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    I have been there once but my familly goes all the time, my son has been there 5 times believe it or not. I have been told I have the memory of an elephant and have a photographic memory for people's faces, places, and events. So I can picture every detail of that place as if its right in front of me. When I was there i surfed off the little island and it was kinda fun but there were people surfing it and I sat wide right on the edge of the reef above the coral, kinda crazy looking down and seeing stag horn ready to gobble you up. Johnson's reef was firing at the time and know one was out there. I asked a few guys what the deal was and they filled me in on it. At the top of the hill if you looked down there with binoculars you could see just how shallow it really was. Almost slab like breaking lower than the reef itself and dredging it dry with every second wave. From a distance it looks like perfection. Even when the cay at cinnamon bay stopped breaking (once the swell dropped) that reef was working, again maybe too small and shallow, but it sure did look perfect.
    Last edited by Zippy; Mar 19, 2013 at 12:55 AM.