What do you do when you pull into big close outs? do you dive in front of your board? do you shoot your board out in front of you or what? i usually pull into close out's that are like 7ft and smaller and i imagine pulling into like 10ft close outs but i don't no if there is something different i should do to be more safe. i no it's more safer to be in the barrel than to straighten out.
Results 1 to 10 of 37
Thread: Big Close outs
Big Close outs
depends I think, but I would think about straightening out and going out infront of the wave, after it breaks, step off the board.
I had a bad closeout experience surfing new inlet on pea island. Was in the barrel surfing a very shallow sandbar and dove in front of my surfboard. When I dove the wave flipped me upside down in the barrel and pile drove me head first with the lip into the sandbar resulting in three compressed vertebrae in my neck, concussion, and tearing every muscle in my back. After that incident I now think staying compact in the barrel on your board for as long as possible is more safe. This allows the wave to release most of it's power while your inside the barrel and you just get churned up in the resulting whitewash. The wave I was riding when I injured myself was only about 4-5 feet but was very square due to the 1-2 feet of water it was breaking over. Diving in front of your board, in my opinion, will increase the odds of seriously injuring vital body parts such as the neck and head. This is just my two cents based on my experience in this type of situation. Hope this helps.
When I hit the sandbar I heard a loud crack and felt my neck sort of sink into my shoulders. I was underwater and my whole body went numb and tingly for about 2 seconds. During these couple of seconds underwater I thought "**** I just broke my neck" and also thought well you got to try to get to the surface so I tried to move, realizing I still could move came up. There was a guy on the inside that saw me take off on that wave and he asked if I was ok. I said no and he helped me get to the beach probably about 20 yards away. Got to the beach and collapsed just laid there for about 10 minutes. Then I started to walk back to my truck on highway 12 got about halfway there and puked everywhere from the concussion I had sustained. The waves were pumping this day one of the best I had had in a while so sat in the truck, drank some water, and paddled backout...couldn't resist. When I got back to the truck again I sat against the seat and it felt like my back was on fire. Drove back to kill devil hills to my house and then called a friend who took me to the E.R. Was a scary day doc said I was in shock so that was why I didn't feel any pain at the time of the accident spent 6 weeks totally out of water. He said I was extremely lucky to not be paralyzed that since I surfed alot and was active my muscles in my neck and shoulder were strong and helped prevent my neck from breaking. Tried to surf after six weeks one day in kdh and ended up with a hematoma the size of a softball on my shoulder and severe back pain. Was going to Nicaragua in a month from then so didn't surf at all til I got down there...still a little weary to this day of getting stuck in closeout barrels. I was also seeing a spine specialist once a month and going to the chiropractor sometimes five times a week. So about 2 1/2 months of no surfing with a lot of pain (could barely walk and was super stiff for about a week) but now I have back pain and my neck cracks all the time. My vertebrae are still compressed though I see a chiropractor regularly. Attached is a picture Mickey McCarthy took of that day in April at New Inlet. Shred On!!!
I posted a reply mfitz73 with more details on page 3 can't figure out this internet stuff the picture is of a smaller wave I caught an hour before I hit the sandbar.
Mar 21, 2013, 02:25 PM #8
thanks Coleslaw i totally agree with you with diving in front of your board is not safe because that's sometimes what i try to do and my board usually stay's with me when i go over the lip. just a couple day's ago my fins cut my arm and i hit my head really hard on the sand bar. but staying in there as long as possible sounds good,thanks for your advice. but sorry for your accident.
Last edited by catmaster2; Mar 20, 2013 at 06:51 PM.
Mar 20, 2013, 08:07 PM #10Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Va beach/ocmd
i know ill get flack for being a bodyboarder but this subject is one of the many reasons why i continue to do it over surfing, most breaks i ride end up being massive closeouts and break in shallow water. Most of the time they are fun and harmless but there are always those beast that do damage. depending on the size ill either just hold onto my board and dig my rail into the wave's face and try to punch out the back or then once i get that first cartwheel done with ill let go of my board and it rushes to the surface away from me so it wont hit me.. i've tried pushing it off to the side right before impact but a majority of the time ( maybe its just bad luck) i end up with a board going up the wave's face and then thrown backdown into my path impaling me in the stomach resulting in pain similar to break a rib ( done that twice, so fun). And even on my rare occasions ive had my leash wrap around my neck.
My buddy who surfs normally either grabs his rail and gets low or hell just pull out depending on the size.
Heres two pictures of me on a small super clean day right before impact, not a big wave at all but it was maybe a foot deep and the sandbard claimed a large portion of my shoulder. note- two different waves.
Oh and always make a really gnarly face too.