Punch through the back if its OH or less really. If its just a big hollow left hander at blacks on a big day, once I know i have no chance I will step off the tail of the board and shoot the board forward into the closeout... If I am racing a bigger closeout and there is day light, I will stick it out but at the last second I sometimes dive forward and do a belly flop skim kind of deal.... If its a huge macker, the step off the back is safest. The board usually doesnt take too much of a beating because the lip wont come down on it and you can just pencil down as deep as you can and let it roll right over.
yea that's what i do sometimes. but i was wondering how can you pull in and make it seem like you stayed in with out getting hurt
Just commit. You will know when its time to bail. Once that tunnel out runs you, instinct will kick in and its time to bail. You will just get in some trouble if you bottom turn in, speed check and lose all your speed, then you will get gobbled up and go up and over the falls. Then you can hit sand, your board can hit you.... Commit, speed check on an ankle tweaking bottom turn and then start pumping for your life again.
If you want Closeout 101, watch the video called "Second Thoughts" with Timmy Turner. Its about the boat trip to Indo when he made the surfer mag cover shot. There is a whole scene at this right hander, where they are pulling in to serious, 20 foot TOH point break and no one makes it out... They pull into like 20 of them and no one makes it out, but they hold their line, get super deep and then you can see the foam ball in the back just gobble them up... And they are over shallow reef. They would fully commit until the end because the cameras were rolling and they were all okay.... but the wave is huge and they just stay in their barrel stance until they get eaten up in every one of them
grab a rail and crouch, diving or jumping is risky. 5 years ago I dove in front of my board on a 5 ft closeout and the lip slammed me directly right in the hairy beanbag. Hurt way worse than being knee'd or punched there. Went to the ER, got an ultrasound, examined by a Urologist, who told that the trauma to my testicles likely will cause fertility issues, which is fine as I'm all good on that front, saved me the trouble of getting a vasecteomy but It'd be a whole different story if it happened 10 yrs prior
Never really tried the crouch and rail grab, but it sounds dicey.... the closer you are the board, the more likely i would think that you and the board will get ravaged, pull up and over and slammed pretty hard.... but whatever works I guess. I just think the step off the back, when executed properly will save you in even the largest of surf... You may get a broken leash here or there, but I would rather be on the sea floor where its safe and let that sucker roll right by than have a 12-15 footer rake me over the sand or reefs.
When I hit the sandbar I heard a loud crack and felt my neck sort of sink into my shoulders. I was underwater and my whole body went numb and tingly for about 2 seconds. During these couple of seconds underwater I thought "**** I just broke my neck" and also thought well you got to try to get to the surface so I tried to move, realizing I still could move came up. There was a guy on the inside that saw me take off on that wave and he asked if I was ok. I said no and he helped me get to the beach probably about 20 yards away. Got to the beach and collapsed just laid there for about 10 minutes. Then I started to walk back to my truck on highway 12 got about halfway there and puked everywhere from the concussion I had sustained. The waves were pumping this day one of the best I had had in a while so sat in the truck, drank some water, and paddled backout...couldn't resist. When I got back to the truck again I sat against the seat and it felt like my back was on fire. Drove back to kill devil hills to my house and then called a friend who took me to the E.R. Was a scary day doc said I was in shock so that was why I didn't feel any pain at the time of the accident spent 6 weeks totally out of water. He said I was extremely lucky to not be paralyzed that since I surfed alot and was active my muscles in my neck and shoulder were strong and helped prevent my neck from breaking. Tried to surf after six weeks one day in kdh and ended up with a hematoma the size of a softball on my shoulder and severe back pain. Was going to Nicaragua in a month from then so didn't surf at all til I got down there...still a little weary to this day of getting stuck in closeout barrels. I was also seeing a spine specialist once a month and going to the chiropractor sometimes five times a week. So about 2 1/2 months of no surfing with a lot of pain (could barely walk and was super stiff for about a week) but now I have back pain and my neck cracks all the time. My vertebrae are still compressed though I see a chiropractor regularly. Attached is a picture Mickey McCarthy took of that day in April at New Inlet. Shred On!!!