I love a good closeout. It means you are going for it. "mayyyybe I can make this one" ... sh*t buffet. Seems like for me it's always a crime of opportunity. If it's really steep and I'm about to get pounded I just dive off and swim to the bottom. If i'm stuck in a bad place I usually step off the back and go into the fetal position, this sucks though because I have come up with a mouth full of surfboard before. Best option is to punch through the back, not much of a learning curve on that one, you either make it through or get tossed over the falls... or try to straighten out and hope to outrun it. As my long time surfing friend always says, "Gotta pay to play!"
and coleslaw, that's intense.
Last edited by leethestud; Mar 21, 2013 at 01:47 PM.
...watch the video called "Second Thoughts" with Timmy Turner. Its about the boat trip to Indo when he made the surfer mag cover shot. ...
That footage is friggen EPIC. I have a lot of respect for those guys. It should be remembered that they were nowhere f'ng close to any medical facilities. If one of them got hurt, it would have been game over.