Despite a rough looking forecast for this morning, the protected spots were pure gold this morning. The winds were supposed to be a little on shore, but they were super light and actually offshore with a little side wind. Then it went to about 2 mph and glassed off. There were about 3 or 4 different spots with people out at dawn. The beach breaks were looking a little rough though. Then the wall started looking half way decent as I passed it on the way back.
Where we were, we had long lines and were quick with some good barrell sections. Some were closeouts, but made for good ramps. Water still a little cold after 3 or so duck dives in a row, but the air was warm
Did anyone else score? Tell us about it. I would rather read your stories than work.
The buoy supposedly is bumpin 3ft @ 14s every so often. I paddled out for about an hour and half to an empty peak at the beach break up the St. around 6:30. Couple of other guys made it out around 7. Seemed like we were getting that larger set every 15 minutes or so; lot of sitting or chasing after mushburgers in between. The swell is coming out of the South and headed North. Kind of mushy and some crumble the tide was a little high, I brought a little extra foam; but the wind was calm and I got a couple of really nice rides when that long interval South swell hit. It was getting really ropey and just starting to get really clean when I split. The tide was headin out. I bet it's hittin really good right now.
Last edited by zaGaffer; Apr 24, 2013 at 06:41 PM.
Granted you're no longer at work, but today's spot greeted me with clear skies, light offshores and a nice mix of nipple to head high waves. 44025 looked good when I woke up but the wind was supposed to go sideshore early and onshore by 9am -- so I second-guessed myself at 7am for about 20 minutes -- thinking that it may not be worth it especially with the extra high tide.
I was out for an hour and change and ended up being out of position for many of the larger sets -- most of us were, and I'm not sure what happened -- maybe too tired or the rip, but I'm glad I sucked it up and went; the bar is working really well after Sandy and what I did catch turned everything around. Few closeouts, great morning.