Right on brother we are all good here! Bummer about your spot - well at least the SP would not trudge through that mess!!! What about the kayak?
Results 31 to 40 of 52
Apr 26, 2013, 04:41 PM #31
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
- BELMAR, NJ
Apr 26, 2013, 05:53 PM #32
Apr 27, 2013, 09:03 AM #33
Apr 27, 2013, 09:39 AM #34
I've immersed myself fully in anything I've ever put on my plate, it's just who I am. But never have I engaged in something that was so stimulating on so many levels every second of the experience. Every wave I catch, there's 3 things I did that made it possible. Every one I miss, it's clear to me the 1 thing that was missing and needs to be focused on next. You hear people talk about "time in the water" as the key to progress and development. To me, that is quite true, though it's more the sum total of "time spent being in the moment while in the water" that not only expedites your skills, but brings you the true joy of every experiential morsel involved. Crap, getting out at 5:45am on Thursday entailed me making my own wax since I'd have slid off my board and the shop wasn't open at the time. There's no chance the shredded paraffin, vasoline, and hair pommade (shot in the dark for stickiness) concoction I melted together was as good as the real stuff, but it helped and was yet another angle of enjoyment and appreciation of all of this.
After blessing it with the best ride of my brief career on the last run of the day Thursday, I traded my 7-4 funboard to a kid nearby for his 6-6 fish. Not sure which of us were more stoked to be receiving the board from the other, but it was love at first ride Friday night when I caught the first wave I attempted with the new stick and even turned frontside at the bottom without thinking just because the board felt so good (for some reason backside turns are natural to my goofy stance, probably from snowboarding). Said session was meant to last only 1 hour to try out the new stick but 2.5 hours later, there was still 5 of us chasing runs at 8:30pm when it was pitch an hour post-sunset thanks to the help of the full moon.
I'd agree that time stops on the drop in and down the line, but time stopped as soon as I threw the suit on for the first time. Not about to check my watch anytime soon either.
Apr 27, 2013, 12:31 PM #35Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Long Buried Island
Apr 27, 2013, 12:44 PM #36
Apr 27, 2013, 12:53 PM #37Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2013
- sea level
Still paying my dues, but on a side note I am smiling my ass off!
Koki, I just don't understand people....
SIDE NOTE: For the slow ones out there. The above was for entertainment value only. I don't compare the loss of peoples' property to my "gone a walkaboot" to get to my favorite jetty. Man, I'm covering my bases these days. And HEY ZUES, I just read The Boston Bombing thread and and Boston Bombers ID things and I'd would have been sent to SWELLINFO PRISON for that a year ago. The end is coming....The end is coming.......
Be cool, Koki. Watch out for mosquitoes and flies.
Apr 27, 2013, 11:46 PM #40
This may sound trite, cheesy or whatever, but being able to get out on the water on my board makes a day special. Even when things suck at work. I've only been at this for 8 months. At times this past winter, sitting out there by myself in 42 degree water, gray sky, gray water, head aching and ears ringing from the last dunking, I'd sort of ask myself, "Why is a 57 year old guy out here doing this sh**?" I can't adequately explain it other than I just like to do it. I love the salt water. The smells of the ocean, neoprene, and surf wax. I was out off VA Beach today for a couple hours. Sunny, beautiful day. Water felt like 60. Made me think back to those winter sessions. Surf was only 2-3 foot, but I had the most and best rides since I started this... I was going to say sport, but it's become more like a lifestyle. This was after experiencing a 2-week slump when I couldn't seem to do anything right when I went out.
I used to say that I wish I had started surfing when I was younger. Now I 'm grateful just to be able to be doing it.