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Thread: Surfing

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    BELMAR, NJ
    Posts
    1,723
    Images
    1
    Right on brother we are all good here! Bummer about your spot - well at least the SP would not trudge through that mess!!! What about the kayak?

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
    Posts
    2,578
    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Irish View Post
    People who seem like they are just out there getting their a$$ kicked, are usually having just as much fun as those who are killing it.
    The ones having the most fun of all are always those little bug-eyed groms. Just oozing stoke... My favorite is watching one tuck themselves just under the pitching lip, then stand straight up and claim it like they were riding the foam ball for 30 yards!

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Lipsmacker View Post
    It takes at least a 23 footer to impress a Hindu.
    May have just woke up the neighbors with the laughter from this one, primed of course with the precursor posts. Quality stuff.

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Irish View Post
    Something that dawned on me lately about surfing. People who seem like they are just out there getting their a$$ kicked, are usually having just as much fun as those who are killing it. I am not talking about people who get wet for 15 minutes so they can tell everyone they surfed today, but those, of all ages, paying their dues and getting stoked over any bit of improvement. Side note, I think I fall right in the middle of the ones paying their dues and the ones killing it, always room for improvement though.
    Quote Originally Posted by McLovin View Post
    I noticed that it's either the really young groms and the much older guys 30+ y/o who are just starting to learn that just love being in the water, eating it, and doing it over and over, are the ones who have fun. Maybe they're vacationing and they're from some landlocked area and are just stoked to be in the ocean.

    The late teens and early twenties dudes are the ones who seem to want to prove something and have the negative attitude. They tend to yell and run their mouths in the line-up when they're not catching anything.
    Tomorrow (well, today at this point) will be my 11th consecutive day in the water and I'm at the 2.5 month mark for being in the game. Also in the low 30s crowd. I will second the previous posts about the fun factor coming from having Mom kick me in the balls (sometimes literally with a wave, board, conch shell, etc.) repeatedly as I earnestly ask for another, harder boot to the bajoules. On Thursday, I was out paddling for 7 hours and with how hard, fast, and constant the 6-8 footers were cranking in MA, my time spent sitting in a lineup was zilch. It was 420 minutes across 4 sessions of eating white to the grill, duck diving, paddling with voracity, and a few dozen takeoffs. If the period were longer or the waves had less power, I wouldn't have spent 96% of the day getting smacked in the face and sprint paddling. Then again, I wouldn't have burned 2 lbs of fat during my sleep (true story) or been near as grateful for every last drop over the top even when it was nose first, feet last over the falls. What was great about Weds-Friday this week in MA was the waves were so damn powerful that if you were anywhere close to proper takeoff spot and timing you'd be hoisted to the heavens. For me, that meant 1:1 ratio of fine rides and fine spills.

    I've immersed myself fully in anything I've ever put on my plate, it's just who I am. But never have I engaged in something that was so stimulating on so many levels every second of the experience. Every wave I catch, there's 3 things I did that made it possible. Every one I miss, it's clear to me the 1 thing that was missing and needs to be focused on next. You hear people talk about "time in the water" as the key to progress and development. To me, that is quite true, though it's more the sum total of "time spent being in the moment while in the water" that not only expedites your skills, but brings you the true joy of every experiential morsel involved. Crap, getting out at 5:45am on Thursday entailed me making my own wax since I'd have slid off my board and the shop wasn't open at the time. There's no chance the shredded paraffin, vasoline, and hair pommade (shot in the dark for stickiness) concoction I melted together was as good as the real stuff, but it helped and was yet another angle of enjoyment and appreciation of all of this.

    After blessing it with the best ride of my brief career on the last run of the day Thursday, I traded my 7-4 funboard to a kid nearby for his 6-6 fish. Not sure which of us were more stoked to be receiving the board from the other, but it was love at first ride Friday night when I caught the first wave I attempted with the new stick and even turned frontside at the bottom without thinking just because the board felt so good (for some reason backside turns are natural to my goofy stance, probably from snowboarding). Said session was meant to last only 1 hour to try out the new stick but 2.5 hours later, there was still 5 of us chasing runs at 8:30pm when it was pitch an hour post-sunset thanks to the help of the full moon.

    I'd agree that time stops on the drop in and down the line, but time stopped as soon as I threw the suit on for the first time. Not about to check my watch anytime soon either.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Long Buried Island
    Posts
    785
    Quote Originally Posted by NewYorkSurfing View Post
    New York surfers, would it be alright to not where a hood this weekend, its right at that weird transition temperature?
    This time of year I wear chinstrap hood, barely know its on. I highly reccomend investing in one, they last forever.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Two Rivers Area, NJ
    Posts
    238
    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    Tomorrow (well, today at this point) will be my 11th consecutive day in the water and I'm at the 2.5 month mark for being in the game. Also in the low 30s crowd. I will second the previous posts about the fun factor coming from having Mom kick me in the balls (sometimes literally with a wave, board, conch shell, etc.) repeatedly as I earnestly ask for another, harder boot to the bajoules. On Thursday, I was out paddling for 7 hours and with how hard, fast, and constant the 6-8 footers were cranking in MA, my time spent sitting in a lineup was zilch. It was 420 minutes across 4 sessions of eating white to the grill, duck diving, paddling with voracity, and a few dozen takeoffs. If the period were longer or the waves had less power, I wouldn't have spent 96% of the day getting smacked in the face and sprint paddling. Then again, I wouldn't have burned 2 lbs of fat during my sleep (true story) or been near as grateful for every last drop over the top even when it was nose first, feet last over the falls. What was great about Weds-Friday this week in MA was the waves were so damn powerful that if you were anywhere close to proper takeoff spot and timing you'd be hoisted to the heavens. For me, that meant 1:1 ratio of fine rides and fine spills.

    I've immersed myself fully in anything I've ever put on my plate, it's just who I am. But never have I engaged in something that was so stimulating on so many levels every second of the experience. Every wave I catch, there's 3 things I did that made it possible. Every one I miss, it's clear to me the 1 thing that was missing and needs to be focused on next. You hear people talk about "time in the water" as the key to progress and development. To me, that is quite true, though it's more the sum total of "time spent being in the moment while in the water" that not only expedites your skills, but brings you the true joy of every experiential morsel involved. Crap, getting out at 5:45am on Thursday entailed me making my own wax since I'd have slid off my board and the shop wasn't open at the time. There's no chance the shredded paraffin, vasoline, and hair pommade (shot in the dark for stickiness) concoction I melted together was as good as the real stuff, but it helped and was yet another angle of enjoyment and appreciation of all of this.

    After blessing it with the best ride of my brief career on the last run of the day Thursday, I traded my 7-4 funboard to a kid nearby for his 6-6 fish. Not sure which of us were more stoked to be receiving the board from the other, but it was love at first ride Friday night when I caught the first wave I attempted with the new stick and even turned frontside at the bottom without thinking just because the board felt so good (for some reason backside turns are natural to my goofy stance, probably from snowboarding). Said session was meant to last only 1 hour to try out the new stick but 2.5 hours later, there was still 5 of us chasing runs at 8:30pm when it was pitch an hour post-sunset thanks to the help of the full moon.

    I'd agree that time stops on the drop in and down the line, but time stopped as soon as I threw the suit on for the first time. Not about to check my watch anytime soon either.
    You nailed it Spicoli. The funny thing is, surfing for nearly my entire life and in my 40s, I have just about the Same enthusiam and stoke. It had lessened for a while in my 30s but has been back big time the last 5-6 years

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    sea level
    Posts
    243
    Still paying my dues, but on a side note I am smiling my ass off!

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Paddington Jetty Bear View Post
    My spot was only accesible, like twenty blocks away, for two months. I had to walk twenty blocks to get there. I know....I know. Don't cry for me Argentina. A whole nature reserve area, some 200 yards, was completely flooded with waist high water. Yucky, dirty, trashy water. I wasn't trudging through that.
    That's true commitment, SouthJetty and your right about the ShredMachine, he has definitely provided much laughter.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Hammonton, NJ
    Posts
    1,557
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    7
    Quote Originally Posted by Koki Barrels View Post
    That's true commitment, SouthJetty and your right about the ShredMachine, he has definitely provided much laughter.
    Dude, I would go to town meetings and these people would be crying about their houses being damaged and shoot, and I'd just lose it. "SHUT UP !!!! I CAN"T GET TO THE JETTY, YOU MORONS !!!! I GOTTA FRIGGIN PARK TWENTY FRIGGIN BLOCKS NORTH AND WALK !!!! WELL, OK, MY CHAFUER HAS TO PARK TWENTY BLOCKS AWAY, DAMN GOVERNMENT STILL WON'T LET ME DRIVE !! AND YOU PEOPLE ARE COMPLAINING ABOUT SOME DAMAGE TO YOUR HOUSES !!!"

    Koki, I just don't understand people....

    SIDE NOTE: For the slow ones out there. The above was for entertainment value only. I don't compare the loss of peoples' property to my "gone a walkaboot" to get to my favorite jetty. Man, I'm covering my bases these days. And HEY ZUES, I just read The Boston Bombing thread and and Boston Bombers ID things and I'd would have been sent to SWELLINFO PRISON for that a year ago. The end is coming....The end is coming.......

    Be cool, Koki. Watch out for mosquitoes and flies.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    VA Beach
    Posts
    1,235
    This may sound trite, cheesy or whatever, but being able to get out on the water on my board makes a day special. Even when things suck at work. I've only been at this for 8 months. At times this past winter, sitting out there by myself in 42 degree water, gray sky, gray water, head aching and ears ringing from the last dunking, I'd sort of ask myself, "Why is a 57 year old guy out here doing this sh**?" I can't adequately explain it other than I just like to do it. I love the salt water. The smells of the ocean, neoprene, and surf wax. I was out off VA Beach today for a couple hours. Sunny, beautiful day. Water felt like 60. Made me think back to those winter sessions. Surf was only 2-3 foot, but I had the most and best rides since I started this... I was going to say sport, but it's become more like a lifestyle. This was after experiencing a 2-week slump when I couldn't seem to do anything right when I went out.
    I used to say that I wish I had started surfing when I was younger. Now I 'm grateful just to be able to be doing it.
    Stayin' thirsty.