Results 41 to 50 of 51
Apr 28, 2013, 01:06 AM #41
And getting into surfing at your age can be a good thing. It lights a fire inside of you when most of your peers are dulled by life. So you got it going on.
Apr 28, 2013, 01:18 AM #43
A formal forum howdy do toPJB...
Really you older guys who just started are cool as heck. Y'all don't cause no probs in the line-up and are usually mild mannered. But, it has to be great to have such a new outlook and experience in life at that age. Dudes, I'm 41 and unless I start to doing something insanely drastic, I'm just hanging around until the end. Bored.
Maybe I should move somewhere that has quality waves. Mushy two footers and six foot close-outs don't get me excited anymore. This past winter there was a few days people called"epic." If you watch any footage of those days(the Mayan end day for example....that's Dec 21 2012) nobody got a wave longer than ten yards. That's not epic. That's sad. Ever since the "intranets" any day that is clean and overhead is deemed "epic." Bigger doesn't always mean better.
Well anyways, you more senior gentlemen will be stoked for life.
Apr 29, 2013, 12:12 AM #45Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
Surfing...saved my life. 62 years old, kids are grown, picked up surfing 2 years ago, major stoked every weekend, gradually added Betties to the pack, all 52-62 years old--- we are all having a blast and have found the fountain of youth. No matter the weather, wind, wave size we are out there every weekend catching waves, wiping out, taking in water, pearling, some great rides, getting better each time. Incredible fun !
Apr 29, 2013, 02:39 AM #46Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
paddle out snag a wave paddle out snag a wave. get in the tube and hang ten. You'll see me on espn cnn fox news..... the walt disney channel. Buy my posters.
it's like you drop in an hit the lip wah pah and get pitted........so pitted
Im stoked. Last week had me really sunburnt sore and chafe scabs all over. But I have a hop in my step and a grin walking around campus. Feels good to get up and get a few hours in and get so much out of your days when everyone else is waking up in the afternoon all hungover. Good choice good healthy clean lifestyle that we live that keeps us out of the gutter.
Apr 29, 2013, 03:48 AM #48
I got just one thing to say bout surfing.....
IT FARKIN ROCKS!!!!!
Apr 29, 2013, 03:39 PM #49
Apr 29, 2013, 03:48 PM #50
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
I believe that surfing has kept my adult life a lot more on track than if I was not a surfer... Going from surfing 365 days a year for hours on end, chasing swells and arranging my life around surfing, to moving to a new location at a new beach, in a different ocean, I really have even more respect for what we all do... I never took it for granted when I had waves every day... I snagged everything I could ever get my hands on and loved every second... Now I just appreciate the fact that once a week or so I can take my longboard or fish out and maybe 2-3 times a month I can take out the old shred stick and get some quality turns and stuff in... Makes me miss the daily dose of waves... they opportunity to surf points breaks every day... or surf a wave that barrels 6 out of 7 days per week.... Do I want to surf a reef break today? A jetty? A deep water channel spot???? Decisions.... Man... I miss those days, but cherish the ones ahead even more... get every swell, every time you can... we all come back to shore better people... every time.