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Thread: Surfing

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Carolina Beach
    Posts
    472
    Quote Originally Posted by DosXX View Post
    This may sound trite, cheesy or whatever, but being able to get out on the water on my board makes a day special. Even when things suck at work. I've only been at this for 8 months. At times this past winter, sitting out there by myself in 42 degree water, gray sky, gray water, head aching and ears ringing from the last dunking, I'd sort of ask myself, "Why is a 57 year old guy out here doing this sh**?" I can't adequately explain it other than I just like to do it. I love the salt water. The smells of the ocean, neoprene, and surf wax. I was out off VA Beach today for a couple hours. Sunny, beautiful day. Water felt like 60. Made me think back to those winter sessions. Surf was only 2-3 foot, but I had the most and best rides since I started this... I was going to say sport, but it's become more like a lifestyle. This was after experiencing a 2-week slump when I couldn't seem to do anything right when I went out.
    I used to say that I wish I had started surfing when I was younger. Now I 'm grateful just to be able to be doing it.
    Stayin' thirsty.
    I'm you, just 7 years younger. Surfing 2 years and have a perma-grin on when I'm in the water. I had a two week slump.... twice... last year. still paddle out in anything, flat or big, choppy stupid. Started surfing because my sons do and water is softer than pavement or ice. But I'm often reminded that the odds of drowning are much higher in water than in a skate park or a snowboard trail.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Hammonton, NJ
    Posts
    1,557
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    7
    Quote Originally Posted by DosXX View Post
    This may sound trite, cheesy or whatever, but being able to get out on the water on my board makes a day special. Even when things suck at work. I've only been at this for 8 months. At times this past winter, sitting out there by myself in 42 degree water, gray sky, gray water, head aching and ears ringing from the last dunking, I'd sort of ask myself, "Why is a 57 year old guy out here doing this sh**?" I can't adequately explain it other than I just like to do it. I love the salt water. The smells of the ocean, neoprene, and surf wax. I was out off VA Beach today for a couple hours. Sunny, beautiful day. Water felt like 60. Made me think back to those winter sessions. Surf was only 2-3 foot, but I had the most and best rides since I started this... I was going to say sport, but it's become more like a lifestyle. This was after experiencing a 2-week slump when I couldn't seem to do anything right when I went out.
    I used to say that I wish I had started surfing when I was younger. Now I 'm grateful just to be able to be doing it.
    Stayin' thirsty.
    Good for you DosXX. Enjoy the journey. Beginners' surf stoke is a good thing. I also got to give you props for being one of the only VaBeach dudes who didn't include "OBX" as their location.......as in..........

    Location: VaBeach/OBX

    And getting into surfing at your age can be a good thing. It lights a fire inside of you when most of your peers are dulled by life. So you got it going on.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Carolina Beach
    Posts
    472
    A formal forum howdy do toPJB...

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Hammonton, NJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by CBSCREWBY View Post
    A formal forum howdy do toPJB...
    Yo CREWBY....on the CBS

    Really you older guys who just started are cool as heck. Y'all don't cause no probs in the line-up and are usually mild mannered. But, it has to be great to have such a new outlook and experience in life at that age. Dudes, I'm 41 and unless I start to doing something insanely drastic, I'm just hanging around until the end. Bored.

    Maybe I should move somewhere that has quality waves. Mushy two footers and six foot close-outs don't get me excited anymore. This past winter there was a few days people called"epic." If you watch any footage of those days(the Mayan end day for example....that's Dec 21 2012) nobody got a wave longer than ten yards. That's not epic. That's sad. Ever since the "intranets" any day that is clean and overhead is deemed "epic." Bigger doesn't always mean better.

    Well anyways, you more senior gentlemen will be stoked for life.

  5. #45
    Surfing...saved my life. 62 years old, kids are grown, picked up surfing 2 years ago, major stoked every weekend, gradually added Betties to the pack, all 52-62 years old--- we are all having a blast and have found the fountain of youth. No matter the weather, wind, wave size we are out there every weekend catching waves, wiping out, taking in water, pearling, some great rides, getting better each time. Incredible fun !

  6. #46
    paddle out snag a wave paddle out snag a wave. get in the tube and hang ten. You'll see me on espn cnn fox news..... the walt disney channel. Buy my posters.

    it's like you drop in an hit the lip wah pah and get pitted........so pitted

  7. #47
    Im stoked. Last week had me really sunburnt sore and chafe scabs all over. But I have a hop in my step and a grin walking around campus. Feels good to get up and get a few hours in and get so much out of your days when everyone else is waking up in the afternoon all hungover. Good choice good healthy clean lifestyle that we live that keeps us out of the gutter.

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    A State of Confusion
    Posts
    1,495
    I got just one thing to say bout surfing.....

    IT FARKIN ROCKS!!!!!

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Stayin' Classy in San Diego
    Posts
    1,776
    I asked my wife this morning, "honey, could you shave the back of my neck?"
    "shave the back of your neck?"
    "yeah, my wetsuit's fallin apart, the rubber around the neck is falling apart. It's turning into little balls and getting stuck in the hair back there."
    "didn't you just buy that at the end of last winter?"
    "yeah"
    "you should take better care of your stuff."
    "and how do you propose I do that? I rinse it out and dry it in the shade.""
    "maybe you should try surfing less."
    "will you just shave my neck? The wind's coming."

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    A State of Confusion
    Posts
    1,495
    Quote Originally Posted by zaGaffer View Post
    I asked my wife this morning, "honey, could you shave the back of my neck?"
    "shave the back of your neck?"
    "yeah, my wetsuit's fallin apart, the rubber around the neck is falling apart. It's turning into little balls and getting stuck in the hair back there."
    "didn't you just buy that at the end of last winter?"
    "yeah"
    "you should take better care of your stuff."
    "and how do you propose I do that? I rinse it out and dry it in the shade.""
    "maybe you should try surfing less."
    "will you just shave my neck? The wind's coming."
    That's funny!