Just want to relate something that happened recently and see if anyone's got a better idea.
A bigger than usual set came thru, double overhead, long period 15-18 sec. <bombs>
Two broke about 10 feet in front of me. Water's a little crowded. I'm on a 7'11" gun board. I know I can't make it duck dive.
Whatever I try will end in a rag dolling. I look behind me. There are are two guys back about 20-30 ft., to either side of me, about 8-10 ft. I ditch my board and dive, right underneath it. The explosion is heavy but all's well. Except for the next one. Same thing, but now I come in contact with one guy twice as we're both going through the spin cycle, and we're fairly deep. We both come up for air, no harm, no dings, no damage anywhere. Probably should have turned turtle and held on, but I know the way these waves were breaking, the results would have been pretty much the same. What do those guys at giant Maverick's do in these situations. What would you have done?
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Thread: Duckdive dilemma
May 5, 2013, 07:19 PM #1
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Western Puerto Rico
Last edited by tropic surfer; May 5, 2013 at 07:24 PM.
I've been through some heavy experiences as well. EC hurricanes, Northern Cals heavy water and CR where my leash snapped on a 14 footer and got stuffed deep underwater. Could consider turn and paddle yr arse off and pick up the wave or take it like a rat. Having other people nearby in the water doesnt help. So sitting in a better place in the first place would help. Of course train to be underwater for a duration, practice zen,
May 5, 2013, 08:08 PM #3
Yeah when I watch surf videos for the second time, I pay close attention to the surfers in the background. Who's turning turtle, who's duck diving. When I watch longboard contests it amazes me how those guys duck dive effortlessly (having high performance rails and light foam probably doesn't hurt).
May 6, 2013, 12:31 PM #4
SOOOO lets get back to the actual question- cause this is actually a good thread! What do you guys do when 10ft of whitewater is in front of you and you got two guys right behind you- knowing if you bail your board- that it has a fairly good chance at hitting them.
AND- i should add - for the benefit of that NJ Shreader- i believe it is KNOWN that if your out in DOH waves that you are not going to duck dive a bigger board when the wave breaks right in front of you... PLUS- if your out in DOH.... i really hope that you would already know what a duck dive is ... and could hopefully do it as second nature.... duh...
That being said- what do you guys think? I never really like the tutle roll and feel like it hardly ever works correctly.... i think the main point is - what do you do when you know two guys are right behind you??? IF no one is around- of coarse a bail and dive to the bottom holding your leash is expected...
May 6, 2013, 02:57 PM #6
To the original poster. This falls in a "grey" area to me, but in my experiences in very heavy winter swells in CA and mexico I.E. Big wednesday, most guys ive been out with are experienced as well in those situations, so simple eye contact and instincts usually keep everyone safe. For instance, I tend to sit a little bit safer in those kind of lineups, since even on huge reefs and points that break almost identically in the same spot, there are always those rouge sets that break 50-60 yards off track.... So, as those rouges are approaching, which you can see from a mile away, everyone starts the scraping and scrambling to get out on the horizon... As this happens, there is usually a natural order and movement like birds. as I paddle out towards the set, I make sure I am aware of my surrounding. I.E. If I see a guy cutting over into my path ahead of me, I begin to take a target line in the opposite direction so as we both paddle further out, we cross paths and continue moving away from each other.... Whenever there are people behind me, I always make sure to look back at them and make some kind of visual contact with them to make sure they see which way I am going, so at the end of the day, when the impact comes or the huge set hits, we usually end up 10-15 feet apart, but almost all lineup next to each other.... This allows everyone to dig as deep as they can, and by this, even with my gun, which is only a 7'2, but I still get as deep as I can... And a true tripple overhead wave at indicators or anywhere in SoCal that can hold it, never break from the top to the flats... when its pushing 20 foot faces, even at a low tide, those spots will break about half way down on the face.... So when you get a barrel on a wave that big in SoCal, you are way up the face, I mean like in the top 1/4 of the face to get inside.... So the point is that on truly huge waves, there is usually a pretty ample slope at the bottom that you can cut your board into and if you go straight down and into it, by the time the impact from the lip comes down, its rolling over and across, not coming right down on you, so if its huge out, cut into the bottom with you gun, push down and hold on for dear life.... I will bear hug it under water so it doesn't catipult into my face or anything like that... I broke a few toes doing this because the final impact was to harsh....
But if you do all of those things, sometimes you may break a toe.... about 50% of the time, you will come up unscathed and the other 50% of the time, you will be 10-15 feet deep and then the turbulance will rip the board right off of you and your body.... When that happens, at least you know that you have positioned yourself far enough away from the pack that you are looking out for others safety.... Sometimes you will be swimming a mile back to shore with no board, avoiding impending doom from the incoming sets, or you can get lucky like my toe breaking situation, come up from about 20 feet deep, following the light with a 12 second hold down or so, to find that your broken leash and board are floating safely about 10 feet away... that is about the best feeling ever....
Craziest thing ive seen someone do in the situation you speak of, was at the above mentioned spot, when the set of the day was coming through... me and one guy made it up and over the peak cause we saw it coming way before everyone else... I saw a woman on a longboard, and this wave face was easily 15-17feet, but the lady just turns towards the beach, in her paddling stance and start paddling towards the beach, meanwhile she is in the flats, right out in front of the impact zone, so the 17 footer detonates and then a 12 foot wall of whitewater just mowed her down like a blade of grass..... You could see that board just flipping and flapping through the whitewater all the way to the beach....
May 6, 2013, 03:04 PM #7
May 6, 2013, 03:18 PM #8Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2012
- VA Beach
May 6, 2013, 03:33 PM #9
May 6, 2013, 03:14 PM #10Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Berlin MD
If i knew were people right behind me, straight up bailing would increase the chance of my board just shooting back and striking someone in the head.
Last edited by scotty; May 6, 2013 at 03:28 PM.