"Break a toe"? So the extreme turbulence underwater is causing the board to hit you so hard that you're breaking toes? Or did you mean another word (i.e., autocorrect)?
I should have better explained. In the toe breaking scenario, I scraped as hard as I could thinking I was going to make it over and about 10-15 yards before the wave got to me I realized that I had in fact put myself directly under the lip in the worst possible impact zone, so I pushed down through the bottom of the wave and to get extra deep, I put both feet on the back tailpad of my board and gave it one last push with my feet since the nose was about 5 feet below the tail, so I pushed the tail down with both feet and was probably 7-8 feet under water... The lip just passed over my head and it went down into the water right behind my back, so the lip itself came down underwater and gave the back 2 inches or so my my board a direct hit. I had both sets of my toes bent still on the tail and when the lip hit, it violently had the catipult effect and made the whole nose and top of the board spring into my body. Its broke two of my toes instantly. My big toe on my right foot still aches if I tweak it wrong sometimes.... But I did the right thing and got deep and used my feet and the impact just blast both of my feet. It hurt pretty bad. I still maintained control of the board though. I never lost it, I just had to bear hug it at that point. I stayed out another hour or so but could barely walk the next day.