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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
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    900
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    2
    thank you to all the guys, especially zach, who have posted meaningful information in here. really has helped me understand this issue a lot better for when i get a chance to get into bigger surf. the biggest ive ever surfed is probably 6ft solid hatteras. that lighthouse can get dumpy as f.u.c.k.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Western Puerto Rico
    Posts
    93
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    6
    yes, thanks for the replies..
    I would add one thing that happened last year. I bailed on a different sneaker set, (nobody near me!) easily DOH, dove deep, and came up with half a board. Snapped the 8' gun in half. Ya never know.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
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    3,722
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    Just for the record. My comments were not a shot at what I still consider home, San Diego. I moved there from the jump because the waves there are hands down the best in the nation. They are world class, year round.

    I am just saying that I have had harder times in 7 foot dumping OC MD than I have on sizes double that out west. That just how the waves are. And that is why the QS and ASP go to places like San Diego. There is wave after shred able wave. Not fighting close outs and fighting currents all day. Granted, I have been worked far harder in San Diego many times than I have back east, but that I just a numbers game. U go out all the time as big as it gets u get ****ed up now and again.

    I'm just saying, If u know The Whales Vagina, u know if the Ob pier is 10 feet, u, me and everyone else will drive a mile south and have a field day on the reefs. If that was the east coast, we would all paddle out there cause there are no reefs and points. And if u surf 10 ft Ob pier on a north swell, brother we all getting ****ed up at some
    Point of the session
    Last edited by zach619; May 6, 2013 at 09:34 PM.

  4. #34
    Matapalo in Costa is a place you don't get your hair wet getting out. Rock bottom point break. Back before the landslide of 99, there was a natural jetty that made it so you would hardly have to paddle. It was like a machine made wave. the second just like the first. long pealing rights. duck diving unheard of except you could be out in head high perfection for over an hour, then be way in to far for triple overhead sets, the second like the first, like the 5th. There was a house sized rock at the takeoff spot. I was there when it happened. I tried to duck dive under the lip, but first wave hit me in the back and pulled my trunks off. 2nd and 3rd held me under the 4th blew up just outside and washed me ashore. I still had my trunks in my toes and was pulling them on when this guy walks up and says, "I couldn't belieeeeeeeeeeeeve you went out there." well yeah I went out. Getting reamed is part of the game. at least they way I surf seems to be.
    Last edited by chicharronne; May 6, 2013 at 10:45 PM.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    BELMAR, NJ
    Posts
    1,215
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    1
    Quote Originally Posted by tropic surfer View Post
    yes, thanks for the replies..
    I would add one thing that happened last year. I bailed on a different sneaker set, (nobody near me!) easily DOH, dove deep, and came up with half a board. Snapped the 8' gun in half. Ya never know.
    I don't know if there is a way to prove this- but I believe if you position your board parallel with the wave before you bail and dive- you can prevent a board breaking...

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by cepriano View Post
    i don't care what anyone says,but beachbreaks are the most challenging wave their is,not reef breaks.reefs have a designated channel,like in Hawaii,u can paddle out at pipe and sit their for 2 hours just watching the waves,but never in harms way.there is no channel on beachbreaks.all we have is sideshore and rips,and they usually take you out 25-30yards just in time for a solid hollow 6fter breaking on your head.i dive deep,no point trying to duckdive if your not in the face yet.some people like to sprint paddle,i find it best to go slow and take your time,so u can delay when u have to dive.kids waste their energy sprinting,then mistime the dive and wash up on the rocks.
    Never in harms way at pipeline? LMAO...you just watch the waves! The same as 6 foot beach break? No one calls this guy on this B.S.? Where do people come up with posts like this. So desperate to make themselves(east coast) sound hardcore.

    LOL....Certainly told by someone that has never attempted pipeline. You do realize that all those guys that are riding that have ridden 6 foot beach break right? The tough part of pipe is not paddling out. It's the ultra heavy/hollow bomb detonating on the reef jacking up faster than anything you've seen. The wave comes out of nowhere. It's not called a proving ground for no reason.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    My House
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    988
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    24
    Sometimes I go to duck dive and my leash wraps around my ankles. I end up being back on the sand before I can get my feet untangled.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    847
    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    And if u surf 10 ft Ob pier on a north swell, brother we all getting ****ed up at some
    Point of the session
    I have surf OB pier at 6 to 7 ft and got taught a lesson! LOL

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Turtle Island
    Posts
    3,620
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeroevol View Post
    I have surf OB pier at 6 to 7 ft and got taught a lesson! LOL
    Yeah but did you shot it?

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    847
    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    Yeah but did you shot it?
    I think I shot my pants a little