I don't even know what to make of this.... why the fck am I not eating mcdonald's every day.... I must be wasting my time with trying to keep the fat off. lol.
Don't feel bad Fitz, that's Jimbo Pellegrine. He's from San Clemente and started surfing Trestles when he was 6. Supposedly he's super tight with Chris Ward and Matt Biolos. Lives in Indo now, prolly eats a lot more rice and fish than Mickey D’s. Dude shreds. Appearance has nothing to do with how well someone surfs.
Your explanation of how to measure a wave made my morning. thank you. not because it was right, or accurate, or even remotely close to how any experienced surfer measures waves, but because it made me laugh so hard i started choking on my cheerios.
And whoever called you Sheldon Cooper, gold...
Was that before or after you were choking on phallic objects?
Listen, kid, if you're that sensitive / snarky you are gonna get your teets lit up on this forum by guys who are way better than me at forum ripostes.
But, hey, sparky....."Have it your way"...! (playing off your fast food shtick)
Recycle it from where? Neither comprehension nor composition of the written word trouble me, unlike some denizens of this forum. Have you seen Idiocracy with Luke Wilson? I think that's the communication that's necessary to get points across to some on here.
I put an honest post up about an eye-opening and fairly traumatic experience and get hammered by ****he@d responses in a matter of minutes yet I'm sensitive for refusing to take verbal abuse. It's called self-respect and the fact that I don't tolerate BS like that from people I don't treat so poorly.
And what are "ripostes"? Some cool surfing technique I just don't know about?
God, what a waste of time. I didn't read your novels but take some advice, quit blabbering, stop dwelling, and get out and surf.
a few things:
- Beginners will always have less comfort level in the water the first time out than you think they will... maybe they are a good swimmer, maybe they are good in the ocean even... but you add a board, wetsuit, a leash and balance, that changes the ball game. Be smarter in the future.
- Study the conditions before you go out. read about rips and jetties. Stand there and talk to the beginner about what you see before going out. It might seem simple to you, but it's a whole new world for them.
- Don't rely on surf forecasts, and be your own judge when you get there (no offense swellinfo, you're on point)
- Think about what you post... "I didn't have time to write a short letter so I wrote a long one." - Mark Twain
I am getting out and surfing. 16 of the last 17 days. 110+ hours in the last 90 days. Each day I go out with a specific plan on techniques I'm working on that day so I have the most refined basics possible. If the waves or conditions aren't conducive to getting reps on that move, I identify another thing to work on because there are always parts of our game we can work on each day.
- To your first point, fully agreed.
- Second point, completely correct. I read about those things each day and try to learn as much as I can about them. I print out a tide chart, take notes on what I saw each day at my local breaks and at what tides and other stats. I also have an old school barometer that I compare the report with.
- Third, correct again. With how fast and drastic things can change (especially at the spots I go), there is no substitute for live observation.
- I do think about what I post. My longer posts clearly take time and they're detailed to give the full picture to those I'm asking for a response. The problem is that several on here don't think about what they post. Some also sit back as an armchair quarterback and fire away at people without reading all the prior posts in the thread to gather facts.
You write an essay about how you brought your friend out in solid surf when he can't surf. You say you want to teach him balance and paddling in 2-3 footers. But there is the occasional 9' wave (which did not exist in the NE on Sunday. I don't care what the other guys in the lineup said). Was the plan to dodge the 8'-9' waves while surfing the 2'-3' waves?
You seem to get defensive about some responses (ie. Erock saying you over estimated your ability). I don't think he intended to offend you. Your description makes it sound that way.... Did you only want to hear that you did a great job and to keep it up? If you don't want true opinions don't ask for them